“There’s something wrong with the thingy that connects with the other thing below this thing.”

If you frequently use the word “thingy” when trying to explain a problem to your bike mechanic, you’ve come to the right place.

The world of bikes can be daunting at first, but you’ll soon learn that the cycling community really looks out for each other.

Maybe you don’t know your chainstay from your seat stay or the skewer from the fork. No worries. Below, we’ll give you a super easy breakdown of all the bicycle parts and explain them in a way you’ll never forget.

Easy Definitions for Each Bike Part

Pedal: It’s like a little flat dance floor for your feet to make the bike go zoom.

Hub: The belly button of the bike wheel that lets it twirl like a ballerina.

Skewer: A long, skinny metal picnic stick that keeps the wheels from rolling away without you.

Brake: The bike’s “whoa!” handle that makes you stop when you might be going too zoomy.

Crankarm: It’s a strong metal arm that plays tug-of-war with the chain when you stomp on the pedals.

Chain: Think of a metal caterpillar that tickles the gears into spinning.

Rear derailleur: It’s like a little metal guide that tells the caterpillar (chain) where to crawl on the gears.

Rear cassette: A stack of metal donuts that the caterpillar climbs up and down to make you speed up or slow down.

Tire: The bike’s shoes that need to be pumped up, not tied.

Spoke: They’re like the bike wheel’s bones, keeping it nice and round.

Seat clamp: A bike’s way of giving the seat a hug so it doesn’t pop up when you go over bumps.

Seatpost: The bike’s elevator for your bottom, letting it go up and down to the perfect height.

Saddle: Your bike’s chair, but without any cushion for extra adventure feels.

Brake & shift lever: The magic wands on the handlebars that help you stop and turn invisible gears.

Handlebar: The bike’s steering wheel, but without the horn.

Head tube: It’s the bike’s neck, holding the front wheel’s brain in place.

Stem: This is like the bike’s nose—it’s where the handlebar is stuck on.

Fork: The bike’s two metal legs that hug the front wheel.

Down tube: The bike’s slide, from the handlebars to the pedals.

Bottle cage bolts: These are like tiny robot hands that hold your drink for you.

Top tube: The high beam you’d walk if you were a bike tightrope walker.

Chainstay: It’s the bike’s tailbone that connects the pedals to the back wheel.

Chainring: These are the bike’s monster teeth that munch the chain up and down.

Front derailleur: The chain’s front elevator that moves it to the floor it wants.

Wheel rim: It’s the circle the tire wraps around, like a snake hugging a tree.

Seat stay: The bike’s backbone, stretching from your seat to the back wheel.

Seat tube: It’s the pocket where the seat elevator (seatpost) lives.

Cables: The bike’s secret spaghetti that sends messages from your fingers to the brakes and gears.

Bottom bracket: It’s the bike’s spinning heart hidden in the belly of the bike where the pedal arms join.

If you’re concerned that you might forget some of the words, we’ve got a great solution. Get yourself a coffee mug, shirt, tote bag, or print of Discerning Cyclist’s limited edition Bicycle Anatomy 101 series.

Share the Love

The post Bicycle Anatomy 101 Diagram: Finally Name Your Bike’s Parts appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

Are you itching to give your trusty bicycle a fresh, eye-catching look? Whether you want to replicate your favorite team’s colors, restore a vintage charm, or simply give your bike a unique makeover, customizing your bicycle’s paint job is the best way to do it.

The good news? It’s easier than you might think.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of painting your bicycle like a pro, using readily available tools and materials.

Here are our simple step-by-step instructions to help you achieve the perfect finish on your existing bike.

1. Equipment Needed for Bicycle Painting

Before you dive into the world of bicycle painting, you’ll need to assemble your arsenal of tools and materials. If you have an air compressor and a paint gun, that’s fantastic. However, you can achieve professional-quality results with aerosol bicycle paints. Here’s what you’ll need:

• Sandpaper (320 and 500 grits)
• Anti-dust adhesive pads
• Various adhesives (yellow masking tape, fine lines, Frisket transparent adhesive film)
• A scalpel

When it comes to paint, always opt for professional-quality products and steer clear of supermarket offerings. High-quality bicycle paints are essential for a lasting and vibrant finish.

2. Preparing the Base or Surface

The key to a successful paint job lies in your preparation. The first step is to create a smooth and even surface for your paint to adhere to. Depending on your bike’s current state, you may need to take different approaches:

• Stripped Bicycle Frame: Stripping a bicycle frame isn’t typically recommended, but if you choose to do so, apply a specific primer for your frame material (carbon, aluminum, or steel). Sand it down with P500 grit afterward.
• Painted Bicycle Frame: If your frame already has paint, check for uneven areas caused by decorative adhesives under the clearcoat. Use a filling primer to cover them or remove the clearcoat by sanding. Be sure to remove any adhesives with a scalpel and hot air. Finish by leveling with primer and sanding with P500.
• Existing Paint or Varnish: If your bike frame has smooth and undamaged paint or varnish, you can paint directly over it after lightly sanding with P500 grit. This sanding is not meant to strip the surface but to create the ideal conditions for paint adhesion.

Remember, the sanding grain should not be finer than 500 grit, as it can weaken paint adhesion and lead to peeling.

3. Applying Paint to Your Bicycle Frame

You can choose between water-based and solvent-based paints, similar to those used for car bodies. Solvent-based paints are favored for their thinness, quick drying, and ease of sanding. Water-based paints can be prone to peeling and may have less long-term durability.

Regardless of the paint type, always use monocomponent paint, also known as “1K Basecoat.” These paints dry through exposure to air and require a topcoat for proper protection. To apply the paint effectively, follow these steps:

• Apply very thin, repeated coats.
• Ensure that you overlap coats while the surface is still wet, usually within 30 minutes at 20°C. Beyond this time frame, you must sand with P500 grit to restore proper adhesion conditions.

If you plan to apply multiple color coats, decorations, or logos, allow the paint to dry and sand between each coat. For special effect or pearlescent paints, use an abrasive sponge instead of abrasive paper for sanding.

4. Special Effect Bicycle Paints

The cycling world has embraced innovative paints, including chameleon paints, Candy paints, prismatic paints, and pearlescent or metallic paints. These paints can be pricey, but the small quantity required for a bicycle frame makes them budget-friendly (around 250 ml).

5. Creating Logos on Your Bicycle Frame

When adding logos or decorations, plan your approach carefully. Start with lighter coats and finish with darker ones. Transparent or semi-transparent colors should always be applied last.

You can order custom logos from a local printer or make them yourself using repositionable transparent adhesive film. Trace your design on the film, apply it to the dry, sanded paint, cut it out with a scalpel, and then spray one or two coats of paint. Always use the minimum number of coats to avoid excessive thickness.

6. The Final Step: Varnishing

The clearcoat is the glossy, transparent layer that protects your paint job from water, scratches, chemicals, and UV rays. Use a high-quality clearcoat consisting of two components: the clearcoat itself and a hardener.

Durability and resilience depend on the care taken at every stage, from primer and paint to clearcoat. While some clearcoats are harder than others, flexible clearcoats are ideal for mountain bikes subjected to rough terrain. Apply two coats, as thicker paint systems are more prone to cracking and peeling.

A well-executed paint job, following these instructions and finished with a quality clearcoat, can last for at least 20 years.

So, there you have it – a comprehensive guide on how to paint a bicycle that’s as easy as riding one. Give your bike a new lease on life with a custom paint job that reflects your style and personality. Happy painting!

The post How to Paint a Bicycle (The Secrets of a Perfect Makeover) appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

WD-40 can be used on a bike chain – but it will not offer the complete maintenance programme for one of the most essential pieces of equipment needed for the bicycle.

Twenty years ago, most hobby cyclists or infrequent commuters would think nothing of applying WD-40 to their chains. They would probably have seen it as an all-purpose oil or lubricant.

There was little competition for WD-40. In the UK, you could probably pick up some 3-in-1 oil in the metal can with a red spout. The can made a funny kerplunk noise when you depressed the walls.

The cycling maintenance industry has exploded in this time and now the chain routine involves, degreasing, bathing, wiping, drying, lubricating, and more wiping. This process should really take place once a week for the most efficient chain.

You could of course just use a belt-drive or shaft-drive bike and do without the chain.

However, WD-40 does have and can play a part in the longer chain maintenance process above. Just don’t tell the purists, or those who apply electric shock treatment to their chains, or buy gold chains.

What is WD-40 Used For?

Water Displacement, 40th formula – WD40 to you and me, ironically causes more friction amongst chain aficionados than any other product. Many would not have it anywhere near their bike’s drivetrain. Some say it’s a solvent, some say it’s a lubricant. It’s cheap, versatile, and likely to be found in any toolbox or under any sink.

In terms of understanding what it can do, there’s nothing better than reading the reviews. Here are some examples, including use on a bike chain: squeaky doors, oils up car parts, unseizes door locks, rubbing out scratches on stainless steel plate, keeps blades smooth and unsticking windows.   

One key benefit of WD-40 is that it loosens rusty parts. As well as a chain, on a bike this could be the nut and bolt for the front brakes, located behind the forks in a hard to reach place which attracts grime and a lot of water.

Another reason for using WD-40 is that it can clean and protect items from corrosion. This will be useful for a chain and alternatively there would be no harm in applying some to the other exposed metal parts of the bike. A rub on the cable ends underneath brake hoods, or springs inside derailleurs would not go amiss. 

We would not recommend spraying these areas due to the amount that would be used. WD-40 is tacky to the surface it bonds to after use and could collect dust and grit. Better to wipe everything down so that the thinnest coat only is on any surface.

A third choice for WD-40 is that it penetrates those stuck components which allows you to free them. It can easily get into the chain links and free them up for movement or could be used on the bolts which hold your bike wheels to the frame. These can seize quite easily as you don’t need to replace or take the wheels off that frequently.

Is WD-40 a Degreaser or Lubricant?

The go-to multi-use WD-40 can which is in every home toolbox or shed is described as offering protection and lubrication. It doesn’t mention degreasing. It can prevent mud and grime from metal products if delivered in a thin enough sheen. The fact that WD-40 offers its own bicycle degreaser away from the traditional multi-use WD-40 should influence the question. 

Can WD-40 Be Used to Oil a Bike Chain?

WD-40 can be used to lubricate a bike chain. The word oil is infrequently used. The thinnest of coats would need to be applied because it can attract grit. WD-40 can be said by aficionados to be too thin and drippy to be an adequate medium term solution to keeping a chain lubricated.

How to Lube a Bike Chain

After drying, you will want to lubricate the chain. You can lubricate using an all-weather product, although some prefer a slightly thicker oil in the summer. A small bottle will last months for the average rider and they retail from as little as £3/$3.50.

Most lubrication is dispensed a drop at a time via a thin spout attached to the bottle. Again, rotate the crank arm backwards before you begin application. The best method allows one drop of lubrication per pin. There is no need to lubricate the entire link, it is unnecessary and wasteful.

If you don’t have time to dab each pin, you can rotate the crank slowly and drop the lubrication onto the chain. Just make sure you keep an eye on where you started and be sure to wipe off any excess. The thinner the lubricant, the more likely it is to drip off the chain. 

You may wish to put down some cloth below the chain from the cranks to the back of the rear cassette to avoid lubricant coming into contact with the floor. If you use paper towels or newspapers here, you risk the drips seeping through and making contact with the floor.

Finally take a clean, lint-free cloth and wipe off any excess lubricant.

How Do You Clean a Bike Chain with WD-40?

The key to using WD-40 on a bike chain is to ensure it is as free of as much grime and grit as possible before you apply WD-40.

Remove the wheels

If you can remove your wheels at this point, then you should. Especially the rear wheel. If you can avoid contaminating other parts of your bike with specialist cleaning products intended for the chain then your bike will thank you for it by having a longer life.

Pre-clean the chain

If you’ve removed the wheels, you’ll still need to rotate the cranks. You can do this without the wheels but a cheap ‘dummy-hub’ will allow for smoother rotation. You can apply degreaser if you want to, some apply a hybrid of dishwashing liquid and degreaser to save a few pennies. You just want to remove as much of the grit and smaller particles as possible. The reason for this is that the WD40 will inevitably attract some bits of muck and road-dirt to it when you ride.

Cleaning the chain

We cannot emphasise enough that less is best in this situation. Drowning your chain in WD40 with a constant spray is both unnecessary, wasteful and time-consuming. We would recommend a short burst, perhaps like a graffiti artist and not going back over the same area. We would definitely recommend using the small red wand that attaches to the nozzle of the spray button for more accuracy. Keep a dry, lint-free cloth close by and immediately wipe off the residue.

The post Can You Use WD-40 on a Bike Chain? (USER GUIDE) appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

The Short Answer

Bike tires should have a slight give when squeezed, but not feel squishy or rock hard. They should be firm enough to provide comfort and grip, while reducing the risk of punctures. Checking tire pressure by feel can be done through squeezing, pressing down, or listening for the sound while riding.

If you’re anything like me, bicycle tire pressure isn’t something that is tested with a fancy gauge but instead with a pinch and press.

But if you’re not sure exactly how firm your bike tires should feel, I’ll give you my easy process for determining if you bike tire pressure is about right – without any equipment.

Should Bike Tires Be Hard or Soft?

The Goldilocks principle can be applied to bicycle tire pressure. Tires shouldn’t be too hard, nor should they be too soft. The answer is between the two, although considerably closer to harder and than softer.

Should Bike Tires Be Rock Hard?

No. Although rock hard bike tires can help you cycle faster, having no give in them at all can present you with a few problems:

1. Discomfort: rock hard tyres won’t absorb any imperfections on the road, meaning your body will take the hit instead, which can be very uncomfortable.
2. Less grip: hard tires have less contact points with the road surface, this means that you are more likely to skid or lose control, especially when turning.
3. Puncture risk: really hard tires are much more likely to get a puncture, which can be cause by riding over something sharp or even simply hitting major bump or pothole in the road.

How Squishy Should Bike Tires Be?

Although bike tires shouldn’t be rock hard, you should only be able to feel a tiny bit of give when squeezing your tire – they certainly shouldn’t be “squishy”.

Indeed, if you sit on your bike and you think your tire looks a little too soft, it almost certainly is.

That said, there are some circumstances in which it would be advisable to have a lower tire pressure, such as in particularly slippery or even icy conditions or if you’re riding with additional weight on your bike (e.g. if you are riding with heavy pannier bags).

Should You Be Able to Press in a Bike Tyre?

Generally speaking, there should be a very slight give in your tyre when you press it in. However, this can vary a great deal depending on the type of bike and tires you have.

How to Check Bike Tire Pressure without Gauge (3 Ways)

If you don’t have a bike tire pressure gauge (or you’re just a bit lazy, like me) there are three things you can do to tell if a bike tire is hard enough by feel alone:

1. Squeeze the tire: Using your fingers, give the tire a gentle squeeze. If the tire feels firm and doesn’t give much when you squeeze it, it’s likely hard enough.
2. Press down on the tire: Place your hand on the top of the tire and press down with your weight. If the tire feels firm and doesn’t compress much under your weight, it’s likely hard enough.
3. Listen for the sound: As you ride the bike, listen to the sound the tires make as they roll on the pavement. If the tires are properly inflated, they should make a consistent, smooth sound. If they’re underinflated, they may make a thumping or flapping sound.

Of course, this is only a rough guide to bike tire pressure by feel. If you want to optimise your bike, checking your PSI with a gauge is definitely recommened. Many bike pumps have gauges built-in these days, including many cheap mini bike pumps.

The post How Firm Should Bike Tires Feel? 3-Step Test without a Gauge appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

Electric bikes, or e-bikes, are now established in the commuting world and can be regularly seen on our streets. If you are a newcomer to cycling or more experienced, the chances are you will have been tempted by pedalling with electrical assistance.

In the UK, sales of electric bikes have maintained a steady growth since 2020. The Bicycle Association, the national trade body for the UK cycle industry, predicts the e-bike share of total bike sales will triple by the end of 2023.

Electric bikes are manufactured both by legacy companies and specialist providers. You can search for e-bikes alongside analogue bikes at most of the well known retailers like Trek, Giant, Raleigh and Specialized or look into the independent electric bike brands like Rad Power, Cowboy, or VanMoof.

The essence of cycling is unchanged by the advent of electrically powered pedal assistance. You’re still outdoors and exercising. You don’t need a special licence if these ‘electrically assisted pedal cycles’ (EAPCs) are still recognised as pedal cycles. The basic geometry of the bike is unchanged by the technology, although most e-bikes are a little heavier.

You can explore all the roads and trails including some which might have been out of reach. But even if you want to just go to and from work, as a discerning cyclist you can rely on the battery and electric motor combination to sweep you to your destination with effortless ease.

Electric bike batteries are perhaps the most important component of an e-bike. They facilitate the flow of a current to the bike’s motor which provides the power for pedal assistance. 

E-bike batteries hold charge which drains from the battery to the motor as it is used. The intensity of the battery use depends on the intensity of motor use. You will use more of the battery’s charge if you ride with more cargo, or need it for every time the road goes uphill. 

Most electric bike batteries are portable and simple to recharge. They plug into conventional wall sockets just like your wearables or laptop. Some don’t detach so you’ll plug the whole bike into the wall. Like all components, they are subject to wear and have a lifespan. 

Eventually, you’ll need to replace your e-bike battery. 

Electric bike battery replacement is straightforward in most cases. Provided the manufacturer still makes the same model it’s a simple swap. But with some estimates of electric bike battery replacement cost being at least one-third of the value of the bike, it can be an expensive purchase.  

Let’s have a look at like-for-like electric bike battery replacement and cheaper options available, as well as refurbishment, recycling and a guide to what you can do to delay each swap.

Electric Bike Battery Lifespan

E-bike battery life is measured by the total number of charging cycles of the battery you get and not by distance or years. This is because no two riders have the same requirements from their battery. You’ll hear manufacturers like Bosch, Yamaha and Darfon talking about charging cycles.

If you buy an e-bike, most of the trusted brands use lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries. Just like the ones in a phone or a Tesla. Cheap new electric bike batteries will be lead-acid or nickel-acid batteries. Think car batteries. Li-ion batteries are more efficient and last longer than lead-acid batteries. Li-ion versions perform better under stress than lead-acid versions.

Regardless of how little you rely on your electric bike battery, it will still have a ‘natural’ life span. It will still lose performance and efficiency over time. How you charge it and store it all influence this shelf life and we’ll look into that too.

Even when dormant, the organised line-up within a battery (grouped together and called cells) react with each other and expend some of their performance. This is called self-discharging.

How Long Do Electric Bike Batteries Last?

It should be a minimum of two years before the average rider needs to look for a replacement electric bike battery. Manufacturers publish in numbers of charging cycles. It’s worth repeating that we all have different requirements for an e-bike, so we can’t be certain how long a battery will last.

Legacy bike manufacturers and niche specialists also refer to frequency of charging cycles to determine how long a battery will last. Once the number of charges is known, Rad Power gives an average of two-and-a-half years for a frequent rider and a minimum of six years for a casual rider.

One charging cycle takes the battery from its discharged state (0%) up to a full charge (100%). 30% to 80% is a half-charge and 35% to 60% is a quarter-charge and so on. The higher quality battery will generate more full charge cycles. Bosch includes a Battery Management System (BMS), which monitors the performance of the individual cells to prolong battery life.

The time between charging cycles is determined by how often the battery is asked to do its work and under what circumstances. If it’s always on and under duress, for example riding up steep gradients, you’ll be recharging more quickly than if you only use it once on each ride to get over a road bridge.

It’s a similar story with range. If you use a smaller battery constantly for long commutes of 40km each way, expect to charge each evening, if not more often. If you use it only for a long, quiet stretch of 5 kilometres on flat roads, you won’t be charging as frequently as that.

Stages of Electric Battery Life

An e-bike battery should gradually lose performance over time. The rate at which performance suffers will increase as you move closer to end of life. 

General day-to-day issues with performance – diminished range, the bike stuttering under load, or temporary cut-outs of power – are not necessarily symptoms of a soon-to-be-expired battery. The battery may just need charging.

We’ll talk below about the perfect environment to run and maintain a battery. But assuming you do this, at least the first 300 charge cycles of all battery types should see it operating at peak capacity and performance.

Nickel and lead battery performance will diminish after this point, sooner for lead. Li-ion will continue to go on strong before it hits a threshold at around 500 cycles. It’s thought that lithium-ion ebike batteries are good for up to 1,000 charge cycles in total though. Cheap electric bike batteries will need replacing sooner than the more expensive Li-ion versions.

As your battery reaches a threshold, it is going to perform at less than 100% of its maximum capacity. Somewhere like 80% of maximum capacity is expected. This just keeps going down over time. My 18-month-old smartphone battery is currently running at 83% of its maximum capacity and I don’t notice any drop in performance.

It will be the same for the next couple of hundred e-bike battery charge cycles; you won’t notice any diminished battery performance. However, over time, you’ll eventually have to increase the rate of charge cycles or adapt your riding if you want to charge less often.

You will find the day-to-day problems happen more frequently and decision day on a replacement will come around sooner.

When to Replace Electric Bike Battery?

Eventually, your e-bike battery will provide you with symptoms at the end of useful life. It might start making strange sounds, or overheat in normal conditions, discharge more quickly or take longer to charge up. Remember your warranty if you think something may be faulty. Two years is standard.

How Do I Know if My E-Bike Battery is Healthy?

You’ll know because the performance of the bike is within the manufacturer’s tolerances. The charge cycle will take the amount of time it says it should. The range is as you expect for the conditions you are riding under. When needed, the battery will keep providing smooth power under duress.

How Often Do Electric Bike Batteries Need Replacing?

Bike batteries need replacing after a minimum of 500 charge cycles if you have bought a cheap lead or nickel acid battery. A lithium-ion battery will see you reach 1,000 charge cycles before considering a replacement. How intensely you use your e-bike determines how often you deploy a charge cycle.

The intensity of use is a personal or professional choice. For example, a cycle courier uses a bike as a tool of the trade and relies on speed and consistent power to schedule jobs. They may want a longer range for all day use or a larger motor in case of fatigue. They might charge every day or more frequently.

Someone new to cycling who wants the reassurance of a pedal-assisted power on a long day out for five or ten minute bursts of one 30 minute ride a day might only need to charge three times a week. A daily commuter who has a couple of hills to get over might need less.  

The power generated by the motor is a very important consideration in charge cycle frequency too. E-bike motor power is a selling point and top speeds can be eye-watering. If you want to travel up to 40mph and with a throttle you can. 

It’s imperative that you check your state, or country’s classification of e-bikes before you choose your motor size and before you go out on the roads. Some of these motors change the classification of an e-bike to a motorbike. With all of the insurance, licensing and safety regulations that owning a motorbike entails.

E-Bike Battery Replacement

The most straightforward option is to replace the battery on a like-for-like basis. Pay a visit to the retailer where you bought the bike and hey presto!

Designers of e-bike batteries continue to work on weight and housing of the unit as areas of improvement and innovation. Commonly seen on the downtube of the frame, they have moved to a rear rack, or integrated / enclosed within the frame.

Making batteries lighter and more aerodynamic certainly improves the weight and aesthetics of an e-bike but can restrict the choices available. Rear-rack mounted batteries are common in Europe and replacements are easier to find than the frame-enclosed types. This frame-enclosed version requires the expertise of your local bike shop to inspect.

Battery manufacturers should keep a supply of your battery type in stock because they know the shelf-life. They’ll balance their inventory and should look to offer more advanced batteries with new tech that still slots into your charger and bike frame.

This will most likely be your most expensive option. But could you consider replacing it via a different source? What about recycling and sustainability? After all, electric cycling promotes environmental good deeds. And then how do you dispose of your old battery safely? 

Can You Upgrade an E-Bike Battery?

You might be unhappy with the range provided by your e-bike battery or the rate at which it can feed power to the motor. Therefore you might consider upgrading. The voltage of the upgraded battery must be compatible with the motor and controller of your e-bike. 

Check with the manufacturer before you consider an upgrade. Remember that your warranty may expire the moment that you make an upgrade. You should only replace with kit from the same manufacturer. Non-original replacements could create serious risks and hazards to you and other users. 

Branded battery manufacturer Bosch offers a frame-mounted PowerPack 300, 400 and 500 model to replace your outgoing PowerPack. The number reflects the expected number of Watt Hours (Wh) delivered by the battery. The rate of the electrical current through to the motor increases as you move through these models. 

Shimano Steps offers a similar selection of increased performance through its range. As does Specialized. Battery manufacturers tend to offer a full package deal – motor, handlebar controller and battery. As such, they can easily integrate tech throughout their systems. 

Upgrades to firmware are now carried out via Bluetooth and you should check if upgrading the battery loses synch with these systems. The progress of this technology might hamper backwards compatibility with older battery systems.

Many specific e-bike only manufacturers use unbranded batteries but with trusted cells inside. Rad Power uses Samsung 35E cells. TENWAYS uses Samsung, LG or Panasonic cells. 

Where to Buy Replacement Electric Bike Battery?

The first place would be from your e-bike retailer. As well as like-for-like swaps their FAQs might have upgrades or replacements for older models. Some push you to the battery manufacturer. Most of the specialist sites which offer replacements for non-branded batteries have compatibility charts so you can check what options are available to you.

Listed e-bike battery manufacturers are Bosch, Shimano, Brose, Yamaha, Suntour, TransX, Fazua, LiGo, Cytronex and Pedego.

Then you can look at eBay, Amazon, forums and other sites. But you will be carrying some risk if you don’t investigate compatibility and compliance fully. 

As you might expect of an electric product, you should check that any battery you buy meets regulatory standards. For example: BS EN 50604-1, UN38.3 and IEC.EN62133, UL 2849. Charging and storing e-bike batteries comes with a fire safety risk. Catastrophic failure can lead to explosions.

Where to Buy Cheap Electric Bike Batteries?

Amazon offers an abundance of unbranded ebike replacement batteries which are cheap. There are thousands on offer for less than £300 / $355, which is usually the base price for branded models. You could look at reselling sites like eBay for part used branded batteries. But ask lots of questions. Rear rack models are the most popular type of cheap electric battery.

E-Bike Battery Refurbishment

Branded e-bike battery manufacturers are clear. Their models should not be refurbished. There’s a lot of science going on inside the case that they don’t want you to risk looking at. There are plenty of recognised international safety standards they comply with that you don’t.

Some recelling companies don’t work on batteries of certain branded battery manufacturers either. As we’ve discussed further up the thread, certain original unbranded batteries can be upgraded and refurbished by improving the quality of the individual cells inside the pack. 

Can Electric Bike Batteries Be Refurbished or Rebuilt?

If you don’t have a branded battery, refurbishment is possible by improving the quality of the technology inside the battery case. This is NOT a DIY job for you. But there is a cottage industry only a few clicks away which can offer to upgrade the brains of your battery.

Recelling will swap out the older individual cells for new ones and snap them back inside the original case. This might boost the performance you had achieved with the older cells. 

Once again, check carefully before going down this path. The warranty of your bike will almost certainly be voided by refurbishing your battery.

Upgrades to the BMS board are offered by recelling companies too. So you can boost the performance of a non-branded battery and some branded batteries. You must check that all of the other components on the bike can cope with the upgrades. Frames and wheels should be OK, but brake performance should be closely reviewed.

Where to Refurbish E-Bike Battery

In the UK, the aptly named Electric Bike Battery Repairs offers a recelling service. In the US, you could look at E-Bike Marketplace or FTH Power. Cells which go by the title 18650 are listed as being of higher quality than many of the cells installed in original unbranded batteries.

You should also look to the original e-bike battery manufacturer for refurbishing options.

Electric Bike Battery Repairs

If you think your e-bike battery is faulty, contact your manufacturer. Don’t try to fix it at home. Raleigh gives some good advice on potential battery failure here.

The market leaders in the branded bike batteries say faulty, old or ‘worn out’ batteries should not be repaired. They cite safety concerns. 

As we’ve highlighted with the upgrade options above, there are many online options for battery repair you could consider. Some of these include battery testing options first and some give a warranty. 

What Can I Do with Old E-Bike Batteries?

E-bike batteries should be disposed of carefully and not tossed into regular bins. Branded e-bike battery manufacturers talk about checking with local authorities or returning it to your bike dealer. There are recognised recycling facilities in the USA and the UK has joined the recycling revolution.

People for Bikes in the USA recognises a scheme called Call2Recycle. Retailers in the UK via the collective body The Bicycle Association is setting up a battery collection and recycling function. It has partnered with the European Recycling Platform.

The European e-bike marketplace is much more mature than in the UK. For example, in 2018 over half all adult bikes sold in the Netherlands were electric. As a result, the number of batteries reaching the end of their serviceable life is significantly greater. 

In Sweden and Norway, two companies have joined forces to recycle batteries and hopes to process Norway’s entire annual requirement. 

A quick chat with your local bike shop or view of the local authority’s recycling programme will be your best guide.

E-Bike Battery Care Guide

You can take some really simple steps and get into good habits to prolong the life of your e-bike battery. Some of them are daily jobs and some part of a longer term regime. Most of these won’t break the bank.

• Cleaning – use a damp cloth
• Storage temperature – avoid extreme temperatures (keep at between 0°C – 20°C) and be especially careful in winter – bring the battery indoors
• Store in the dry and don’t charge a wet battery
• Park bike in the shade
• Remove the battery when transporting the bike – avoids damage by bad weather and road debris
• Keep some charge at all times – especially during prolonged storage – between 30% and 60% is recommended
• Invest in an automatic charger with cut-off
• Avoid constant overloading of the battery – lighten the load if you can
• Never use a charger which did not come with your battery
• Never overcharge
• Keep the discharge contacts clean and grease them very occasionally
• Clean the battery separately and carefully, avoid splashing water on the contacts and avoid power washing

The post Electric Bike Battery Replacement: 6 Places to Find Cheap E-Bike Batteries appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

A saucepan, a garden spade or a backpack. Three utilitarian items that, when well designed, perform their job without even so much as a modicum of fuss. So well in fact that you may never notice their intricacies or foibles.

Bike tires (or tyres) can and will fit into this narrative, barring one chin-scratching, angst-inducing event – a puncture. Punctures can, at best, ruin a glorious sunny ride or make you late for work. At worst, a punctured bike tire can quickly render a bike dangerous to ride.

For most cyclists, including us here at Discerning Cyclist, a riding life is never truly puncture-free. But, with a little bit of care and attention, some steps can be taken to reduce the occurrence of this downright annoying event. Fitting a pair of puncture-proof tires is perhaps the quickest and easiest way to help prevent a puncture.

Best Puncture Resistant Bike Tires

Why Do Bike Tires Get Punctures?

Today, all bicycles are equipped with pneumatic bike tires – essentially a fancy way to describe a rubber tire (with or without a separate inner tube) inflated with air. The air inside the tire helps it roll when in contact with the ground.

A puncture happens when the air inside the tire (or tube inside) escapes, causing a deflating feeling for the rider and the tire. Punctures can happen for several reasons.

A sharp object piercing through the tyre is the most common cause of a punctured bike tire. Items like glass, thorns or nails are sharp enough to enter through the rubber casing of the tire, allowing air to quickly escape around the hole that it created.

When changing a punctured tire yourself, be sure to check if the small items that caused the puncture have been removed. Often, they remained lodged in the tyre. You don’t want to start riding again only to find that the original culprit has caused another puncture!

The second cause of a puncture is what’s commonly known as a pinch flat. This only occurs in tyres with an inner tube. It occurs when the inner tube is squeezed against the wheel. Most pinch flats can be identified by a ‘snake bite’ pattern in the inner tube – that is two thin holes adjacent to one another. By choosing to ride tubeless tires you virtually eliminate this type of puncture.

There are other, less common, reasons for a tyre to get punctured. Sometimes a tyre can be so worn that the inner tube is quickly exposed to the surface upon riding. In some instances, the tyre can be incorrectly seated on the wheel, causing the inner tube to be exposed. Bikes with incorrectly set up rim brakes can also rub the tyre causing it to rupture and lose air.

Do Puncture Proof Bike Tires Exist?

We hate to say it, but no bike tire is 100% puncture-proof. However, several features are added to tires to eliminate the most common types of punctures.

The most popular method is to add an extra layer between the tread (the rubber outside of the tire) and the casing (the inside of the tyre that forms its shape). Some are extra thick to prevent objects which penetrate the tire from reaching the inner tube. Others are extra tough.

Another trick used by tyre manufacturers is to use either a special blend of rubber tread or a tread with extra thickness. Like the puncture protection layer we detailed above, the aim here is to provide an extra barrier against sharp objects.

There’s a third attribute in the fight against punctures – the tire casing. Whilst most foreign objects enter the tire via the tread some can find their way in through the sidewall casing – that’s the sides when the tires are mounted on the wheel. Protecting and strengthening the sidewall casing gives the tire support and prevents tyre wear at what is a delicate part of the tire.

Puncture Proof Tires [PROS + CONS]

Before digesting the pros and cons of puncture-proof tires, take a moment to think about the bike rides you most frequently do and the reasons for those rides.

Are Puncture Resistant Tires Worth It?

In the opinion of the author puncture-resistant tires are worth the investment, for almost everyone. From those riding a folding bike to the train station to those taking their hybrid down to the shops, anything to prevent the dreaded hiss of escaping air is worth it in our book.

If the increased weight and rolling resistance are too much of a cross to bear, then other solutions like tubeless tyres or solid tyre inserts might be more your cup of tea.

3 Puncture Proof Bike Tires

Plenty of tyres these days feature some element of puncture protection so let’s look at 3 of our favourites.

1. Schwalbe Marathon Plus

• £36
• $53
• €28

Prices are approximate

• Size: 700 x 25c, 700 x 28c, 700 x 32c, 700 x 35c,

Anti-Aging Side Wall

E-bike Ready

Rolling Resistance

First up on our list is a tire with a solid reputation in the cycling community. The Schwalbe Marathon Plus is trusted by everyone from daily commuters to cyclists who want to ride around the world – Schwalbe themselves say it’s their best-selling model.

If you see one in your local bike shop and you’ll be surprised at its thickness and how sturdy the tire is. It features a 5mm layer of puncture protection – this is more than the 3mm layer in the standard Marathon tire. Pleasingly that layer is now composed of recycled materials.

The great thing about the Marathon Plus is that it should fit your bike. We counted 18 different sizes on the Schwalbe website from the dinky 16” wheels of a Brompton right up to a chunky 1 ½ inch tire for a 28” (700c) wheel.

SHOP ON AMAZON

2. Continental Gatorksin

• £33
• $43
• €35

Prices are approximate

Size: 700 x 23, 700 x 25, 700 x 28, 700 x 30, 700 x 32

The right choice for a strong performance in the urban field and on tour

The right tire when it comes to tough conditions

Continental’s Gatorskin is a popular option for those looking for a puncture-resistant bike tire. The tire features a PolyXBreaker – a rather fancy name for a layer of puncture protection. There’s also a ‘Duraskin’ a prevention layer that surrounds the entire casing of the tyre to protect it from cuts and abrasions. Look closely and you can see the criss-cross pattern right across the sidewall of the tire.

At our count, there are 11 different varieties of the Gatorksin available. In the most popular sizes like the 700x25c and 700x28c (typical road bike tire sizes), both folding and rigid bead options are available. Folding tires make them easier to carry, but they’re also more expensive than rigid tires.

Gatorskins are also relatively lightweight and have good rolling resistance for a tire with some element of puncture protection.

SHOP ON AMAZON

3. Specialized All Condition Armadillo Elite

• £45
• $45
• €45

Prices are approximate

• Size: 700 x 23, 700 x 25, 700 x 28, 700 x 30, 700 x 32

Casing: 120 TPI

Bead: Foldable

Bike manufacturer Specialized also make a whole host of accessories and components. Their All Condition Armadillo Elite tyre is best suited for road and some hybrid bikes. Reviewers praise the tyre for its ability to provide grip, reduced rolling resistance and of course an element of puncture protection. The Armadillo Elite is available in a small number of sizes. There is however a standard version of the Armadillo which has a greater breadth of sizes, although it isn’t available with the faster rolling rubber compound of the Elite version.

Buy Here

The post Bike Tires That Don’t Puncture: 3 Puncture-Proof Tires appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

Commuting by bike is made more comfortable by riding with the optimal tire pressure. Beginners will need to know where on the tire to find the manufacturer’s recommended amount of inflation. From there, they can work towards finding a sweet spot which could change based on different surfaces and riding conditions.

What Pressure Should My Bike Tires Be?

Bicycle tire pressure is measured in PSI (pounds per square inch) or in bar (from the ancient Greek word for weight). Bike tire pressure should be within a measured range noted on the side of each tire. Manufacturers set this to prolong tire life and acknowledge different rider characteristics.

It’s not unreasonable to start with a tire pressure in the mid-range of the manufacturer’s recommendation. Each tire should show an international standard measurement of size. Manufacturers tend to include the pressure range, or at least maximum pressure, with this information stamped on the side of the tire.

Recommended pressures change depending on the choice of tire and bike. You must choose a tire which fits your wheel safely for the type of bike you own. A mountain bike tire is not suitable for a road bike. 

The narrower the width of tire, the higher is the pressure you can usually run to. Tire pressure is also decided by whether you can run tires with or without inner tubes. You will usually run a mountain bike at a lower range of pressure than a gravel bike, hybrid bike, or road bike.

Commuters should want to have the most comfortable ride they can. Tire pressure makes more difference to comfort than other components or accessories. Running too high, or too low a pressure can impact speed, stability and tire wear. You will also increase the risk of punctures or damage to the wheels if you get the tire pressure wrong.

What PSI Should Bicycle Tires Be?

Bike tire PSI should be within the manufacturer’s range and be comfortable and safe for you to use. As you move towards the manufacturer’s maximum limit, you will be sacrificing comfort for speed. You should not run below the minimum PSI and never exceed the maximum PSI highlighted on your tire.

In the example above, for a road racing tire, on the far right of the markings, we see a recommended range of 100 – 145psi or 7-10bar. The manufacturer is European, where countries choose to measure in one format or another. The mid-point would be 122psi or 8.41bar.

The total range is 45psi in this example. Put another way, the pressure can increase by 45% from the minimum. 

Why is this? 

It is usual for the maximum recommended pressure to reflect a tire’s ability to perform in dry conditions and a butter-smooth surface. Well, congratulations if you always ride in this environment!

The middle of a tire’s PSI range is typically aimed at a rider weight of between 70kg / 154lbs and 80kg / 176lbs. Rider weight is the dominant factor which determines where on the PSI sliding scale you should be. 

Carrying weight is an important element of your optimal PSI. If you ride with multiple accessories and essential luggage, you should expect to ride further up the scale than if your total bike weight is leaner.

Bicycle Tire Pressure Tips

With all these variables to consider and a wide PSI range, you should experiment to find your optimum range and work out a sweet spot. Keeping a note of the different ranges of PSI will help but you don’t need to obsess. If you commute on the same route and have the same mass on the bike, you won’t need to change PSI too often. 

Regular inflation check-ups

Tires lose pressure regularly and consistently. Even when not in use. As a minimum, check them every week but more regularly if you ride at the low end of the pressure range.

Invest in a good pump with a gauge

Having a bike pump with a gauge is necessary to measure your PSI. Don’t rely on thumb pressure on the tire. You can buy a hand pump with a gauge which you can carry, or keep a track-pump at home. Track pumps are really useful if you have more than one type of bike and ride regularly. 

Remember – increased PSI does not equal increased speed

Conventional wisdom used to tell us to always run to higher PSI to reduce rolling resistance. Higher pressure reduces the flex of the tire rubber and this reduces how much of it touches the surface. This meant less effort needed from us to turn the pedals and therefore higher speeds.

Modern thinking adds the effect that running tire pressure too high has on the rider. I’m sure we’ve all felt a ‘buzz’ and vibration when riding firmer tires. Some of this vibration equates to a loss of energy. If you ride your tires at slightly lower pressure to lose this vibration, chances are you won’t notice a loss in speed but you may notice a more comfortable ride.

Reduce the risk of bottoming out and pinch-flats

Most of us can intuitively feel that running a low tire pressure makes the ride feel a little slower but exchange this for comfort. But this – and the deteriorating quality of riding surfaces – increases the chances of getting a puncture.

As the PSI lowers, the chances of the tyre and/or inner tube making contact with the wheel and surface at the same time increases. If they meet, the pressure in the tire is overcome and the rim slices through the tread or inner tube. The sharper and smaller the contact point, the greater the chance of this ‘pinch-flat’. 

Riding on as smooth a surface as you can avoids this but this is not a real-world scenario. Do not ride swerve wildly to avoid drains or potholes as you ride. 

It’s a good idea to avoid riding up and down the corners of kerbstones as their right angles are a trap for under-inflated tires. It’s the same with tree roots. With the right planning you can avoid the edges of potholes by leaving a sufficient gap between you and the road user in front of you.

Lower pressure in wet conditions

Lowering the pressure in the wet by 10% is a good idea. You’ll benefit from more grip as more of the tire’s surface area makes contact with the surface. You’ll also be able to turn corners more confidently. More grip will help to counter the reduced performance of brakes in the wet too. You’ll be riding slower anyway so shouldn’t be bothered about speed.

Other good tire admin

If you can, keep a small carry-pump on your person at all times that you ride so you can top up tire pressure but do not carry on if it immediately lowers again. The chances are that your inner tube or tire is deformed which will make your ride unsafe and could cause expensive damage to your wheels.

Avoid petrol / gas station pumps. Tires which use Schrader valves fit these pumps but they are not designed for use with bike tires. The gauge reading will not be accurate and the risk of a blow out is significant. City authorities are investing in public bike pumps so if you can, choose these. Or find a local bike shop. They should have a pump you can use.

Be aware of the condition of your tire. If you can, check them after each ride for nicks and cuts. Be mindful of the depth and wear on the tread as this will influence the performance and also the PSI you can run. 

If your tread is very low, a higher PSI range will affect ride quality and handling. A replacement tire will cost less than repairing a damaged bike caused by a bad fall because of poor tread. 

Tire compounds run from soft to hard depending on the level of feel on offer, traction, braking power and puncture resistance – your manufacturer should take this into account when marking up the PSI range.

Consider running a higher pressure on the rear than the front because most rider’s weight distribution on the bike favours the back tire.

Summer vs Winter: Tire Pressure in Hot and Cold Weather

Higher temperatures can increase your tire’s pressure because the molecules inside it move around more rapidly. Contrasting with this, tire pressures lower more quickly in the winter. Air pressure drops in cold conditions but not really by more than 1psi for 10°C, so this impact is negligible.

Colder rubber equals harder rubber and your ride may be more rigid in the winter months. If you ride with tires of a harder compound made for better puncture resistance in grim conditions then lowering the pressure will improve ride comfort. 

External temperature fluctuations are not considered as having a dramatic impact on your tire pressure. This is especially true if the ambient temperature where you pump up your tires is close to the temperature outside.

The post Bicycle Tire Pressure: Beginner’s Easy Guide appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

The Short Answer

Bike pedals come in two main types: flat pedals, which are versatile and suitable for all types of riding, and clipless pedals, which allow riders to securely attach their feet for enhanced power and efficiency. Clipless pedals require specific shoes with cleats, and pedals are reverse threaded to prevent them from loosening while riding.

Bike pedals help to convert the power of our legs into the effort needed to turn the wheels forward. They need to be comfortable for commuting and ideally, non-slip, so we can reliably step on and off as we go to and from work or study. Pedal variations owe much to the sportier side of cycling, but most of us will be happy with a standard flat pedal.

What Are the Different Types of Bike Pedals?

Commuters will be familiar with the flat, rectangular pedal from their first bike ridden as a kid. Sportier riders may have seen a stubbier version designed to house a special shoe with added cleats. Then there are smaller, almost round models designed to take a shoe with the cleat built in.

Clipless Pedals

Cycling is indebted to the sport of skiing and a suave entrepreneur for bringing clipless pedals to the masses. Prior to the canny marketing techniques of Bernard Tapie and the Look pedals with no binding, sporting cyclists used a metal toe-clip cage system fixed to the pedal and slipped a shoe inside the clip.

Some track cyclists used a ‘quill’ system of pedal instead –  a shoe with a flat metal or plastic plate screwed on, rested on one side of the pedal, weighed down with a ‘quill’ to take the plated shoe. 

Both the quill and the toe-clip version relied on the rider leaning down to manually loosen the strap going around the cage when they needed to step off. A clipless pedal accepts a cleat (fixed to the sole of the shoe) into a housing and locks it in. An outward rotation of the foot from a pivoting heel quickly unlocks it. 

The locking in of the foot to the pedal helps the earlier application of downward pressure onto the pedals and hence, more power per pedal stroke. Clipless pedals have been adopted by racing cyclists, gravel riders and active mountain bikers. The mountain bike version clips in from either side and is smaller, to attract less mud. The road bike version, with the exception of SPEEDPLAY, clips in from one side.

There is a school of thought that with clipless pedals, the very best cyclists can also pull on the pedal during the upstroke for maximum efficiency, getting more from each stroke. This is rare and in most cases the best you can hope for with a clipless pedal is reassurance that your foot is not going to leave the pedal when you need it the most.

Flat pedals

Flat pedals are found on most bikes as they leave the factory. They are designed to be simple to use, are two-sided and broad so that most of the sole of your shoe can fit onto them. They are designed to be worn with any type of regular footwear. 

Flat pedals might often be made of a compound plastic or of metal. Some come with amber reflectors to suit local regulations. Their key attribute is their utility. They can be used with ordinary shoes, can be fitted with toe clips if necessary and fit most bike ranges. 

They are mainly used without clips because most riders need to touch the floor with their feet on a regular basis. Imagine having to think about rotating your foot to unclip or reach down and loosen a strap on a pedal down by your lower calf at every stop. Flat pedals do away with this.

Clipless vs Flat Pedals

Which Bike Pedals Do I Need?

Most commuters will need flat pedals on their bikes. The ease of stepping on and off the pedals as you come to a halt, or slow down gives them the edge over other types. A clipless pedal can be used for the same purpose but is much smaller and harder to rest your foot on comfortably and for a long time. 

Most commuting bikes come with flat pedals included. That’s a good sign of what you need. Most sporty bikes come with no pedals and an expectation that you want to add clipless pedals. Chances are you will take them off your outgoing sporty bike. 

Bicycle Pedals FAQs

Are Bike Pedals Universal?

Different pedals are designed for different types of bike riding. The flat pedal is the most universal type. This type is used for all types of riding most comfortably. A clipless road or mountain bike pedal is designed for specific types of use. You can commute in them – with more difficulty.

Bike pedal sizes depend upon the thread which the crank arms will accept. The age of the bike is the main factor. The 9/16 20 TPI size will be found on most adult bikes these days. Your local bike shop can help if you have any questions and if you don’t have digital measuring calipers. 

Are All Pedals the Same Size?

The shape and area of the bed that you put your foot on differs from pedal to pedal. Sports design influences this. For comfort, flat pedals have a large, wide base and you can use both sides. A clipless racing mountain bike pedal is no larger than an egg-cup, to attract the least amount of dirt.

Why Are Clipless Pedals Called Clipless?

In order to stand out from existing toe-strap and clip models, manufacturers needed a catchy title, hence clipless. The name does not refer to the action of clipping in and out of the pedal. The sleek design with no cages or housing became easily identified and synonymous with cycle sports teams.

Are All Clipless Pedals and Shoes Compatible?

No. Clipless pedals require specific cleat systems to house on the bed. Shimano pedals take the Shimano cleat, and Look and Speedplay need their own cleat. Clipless shoes are designed to take one, or the other, type of cleat. They have two (usually for off-road use) or three bolts (road bikes).  

The two-bolt system is manageable to walk-around in and usually made of metal, whereas the three-bolt system, for road cycling, is designed for on-the-bike use only. They are ungainly to walk around in and made of plastic, so also wear down much more quickly when you walk around. 

The two-bolt system is better for those sportier commuters who want to extend their journeys off road onto gravel or trails. Their compatibility is with mountain-bike style clipless pedals with two sides for entry and a (slightly) easier clip out for when an emergency foot down is needed.

Most commuters with a clipless system should probably go for the two-bolt system and think about a clipless shoe to round that system off. You can buy some pretty snazzy two-bolt clipless shoes that would suit any occasion, including the catwalk. Just be aware that some of these are designed for urban use and may not be ideal for off-road in wet and muddy conditions. 

What Does SPD Mean in Pedals?

SPD stands for Shimano Pedaling Dynamics. Invented for the mountain bike market, it’s a clipless system connecting the pedal and the outsole of a specific shoe. There is an SPD style for all off-road riding – casual trails to fast downhill. Don’t confuse it with the road-specific SPD-L system.

Are Bike Pedals Reverse Threaded?

Bike pedals are reverse threaded. The action of tightening and loosening is the opposite to most threaded systems. They self-tighten as you ride and shouldn’t fall out. It may also be a hangover from when you back-pedalled to brake. If you back pedal with a standard thread pedal, it falls out.

The post Types of Bike Pedals (A Simple Guide for Simple Minds) appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

The Short Answer

Bike tires lose air due to factors such as punctures, permeation of air through the rubber, poor inflation, and debris causing leaks. Regular maintenance, proper inflation, and avoiding sharp objects can help prevent flat tires. Different types of tires have varying rates of air loss.

Bike tires (or tyres) lose air more rapidly than vehicle versions due to size, shape, material, and a constant pressure forcing air out of them. The day-to-day hazards of punctures are easier to identify, so it can be frustrating to have to re-inflate a tire that felt firm the last time you rode.

What Causes a Flat Bike Tyre?

Punctures from surface debris, poorly inflated, worn or cracked tyres, plus constant pressure forcing air out of any gaps in the rubber compound and valves are the main cause of a bike tyre going flat. Day-to-day, a tyre will also lose pressure despite efforts to keep it all in.

The tyre is our only contact point with the surface so we must treat it with due care and attention. They are responsible, in no particular order, for grip, comfort, safety, fatigue, efficiency, and fun. Tyres can be directly filled with air, or even sewn together then stuck directly onto our wheels.

Most day-to-day cycling is done using clincher tyres, where an inner tube is housed between the tyre and the metal rim, then is inflated with air. The right pressure and a correctly housed tyre ensures a tight fit.

Tyres are designed in most cases to resist rapid deflation but cannot be designed to fully keep air in without being made impossible to ride comfortably. The rubber compounds of a tyre and the valves used to inflate them must be soft enough to be comfortable to ride on.

Any harder and you’d lose enjoyment (and some teeth maybe!). Before the pneumatic tyre came along, early bikes were called bone-shakers. They were made with wooden wheels and iron tyres!

Surface debris will cause more modern tyres to deflate rapidly. Small pieces of flint, glass, metal and stone are to be found on the ground and will always find a way past your tyre’s defences. You normally get that feeling in your stomach around 30 to 90 seconds after they strike, as you feel the sudden squidgyness from your rubber grinding against the surface underneath you. Your control soon starts to waver.

Sometimes you won’t notice or feel it until the next day if the hole only allows the tiniest amount of air to leave. If you have decided to ride with a tubeless tyre, the liquid sealant rotating around the inside of the tyre will hopefully do its job and close up the gap to stop any more escaping.

Poorly inflated tyres can also cause rapid deflation. This happens with clincher tyres when your inner tube is under-inflated. This is different from a puncture caused by debris. It’s known as a ‘pinch puncture’.

You’ll hit a sharp edge, like a kerbstone, pothole, or tree root, hard enough to press and pinch the inner tube against the metal rim of the wheel hard enough to go through the tube. It usually leaves a dracula-like bite – like the mark from two fangs – next to each other on the inner tube.

All punctures need to be fixed as soon as possible. You should not ride your bike on a flat tyre as the risk to permanent damage to the rim is almost unavoidable. Replacements are not cheap.

We’ll look at correct inflation later but our attention now moves to dealing with the fact that tyres simply, over time, lose air and need to be re-inflated from time to time.

Why Do Bike Tires Lose Pressure?

Bike tires are not like car tires. They are more porous, and rubber will let air escape naturally. They lose pressure because of the higher pressures they run. They have a larger surface-to-volume ratio which means air escapes more quickly. You can limit the loss of pressure but not eliminate it.

A car tire subject to average use should be checked once a month and the pressure topped up. A bike tire loses a burst of pressure almost as soon as it’s inflated then slows to a steady pulse. Between seven to ten days of use, most should be examined and pumped up.

You really should be checking before each ride. Even a quick bounce of the wheels should suffice to get a feel. Better to check at base before noticing it when you are on the move.

Can a Bike Tire Lose Air without a Hole?

Pneumatic bike tires deflate naturally through a process known as permeation. This is the process of molecular penetration of gases, vapours or fluids into, through, then out of the material membrane of a solid. In this instance the penetration of the air through the inner tube, or tire.

Why Does a Bike Tire Keep Losing Air?

Compared to a car tire, a bike tire loses air more rapidly. Permeation differs between materials and a quick cross-reference shows that car tires are much denser and firmer, which means the air passes through more slowly. A bike tire should be reviewed and topped up once a fortnight at the least. 

Air is only able to escape from the outer edges of an inflated surface. Although car tires have more volume than bike tires, and a greater surface area, the surface to volume ratio is the key calculator. Without getting too scientific, the surface to volume ratio of a road or hybrid bike is more than nine times that of a standard car tire. This therefore increases the chances of air escaping.

The most common reason for losing air repeatedly and rapidly is that the flint, glass or objects which causes the flat tire in the first place is not sufficiently removed before attempting to install the replacement.

This has happened to me on a handful of occasions – usually when I’m trying a replacement on a cold and wet roadside and all I really want is to be at home. Spending 90 seconds locating and rooting out the source of your puncture before re-inflating on the road and checking alternatives will save a lot of time. 

New Bicycle Tire Keeps Going Flat: Why?

Permeation occurs no matter the tire. Even a new tire with firmer rubber, with more material compared to a worn version, will still go flat. Other reasons are low tire pressure, a damaged inner tube before replacement, or a spoke has pierced the rim and is rubbing against the inner tube or tire.

You should avoid allowing a wheel with a completely flat tire to rest on a firm surface as this could cause irreparable damage to the tire and rim. 

How Long Should a Bike Tire Stay Inflated?

An average bike tire should stay inflated for around a week to ten days. Riding without puncturing does not impact the rate at which the air escapes naturally. A tire inflated to its maximum recommended level will leak more air in the period just afterwards, then the rate of deflation slows.

It’s not unusual for the average commuting cyclist to see a tire lose between five and ten pounds per square inch per week. This is between 0.34Bar and 0.69Bar. The air will continue to work its way out from there at a slower pace. You’ll use more or less depending on use.

From personal experience I find that a tubeless tire (no inner tube) loses air more rapidly than a clincher tire where the inner tube runs inside. It is highly likely that this is down to less than adequate tubeless tire maintenance, which can easily cause air to escape between gaps between the tire and rim. No such worries with a clincher tire.

Different types of tire will lose air at different rates. The length of time it needs to stay inflated is also related to size and pressure. They only hold a small amount of air, but are faced with a lot of pressure. 

It used to be considered normal to have road bike tires rock solid. Track bikes still have very hard tires but road bikes have softened slightly. A road bike clincher tire will still run to around 120psi / 7.58Bar and is usually the tire type which needs inflating most frequently.

Hybrids/Gravels are next in line for speed of deflation, then mountain bikes and finally fat bikes. There is no limit to the amount of times that a tire may be inflated. It has not been proven that different surfaces affect the speed of deflation. 

How Do I Stop My Bike Tire Going Flat?

The best advice to avoid a bike tire going flat is to ride good quality tires at the correct pressure via regular inflation, and safely avoid debris on your ride. It’s vital to check your tire inside and out for evidence of sharp objects stuck to it. Otherwise a repeat puncture is sure to follow.

If you are planning a long ride, then inflate your tires to the correct pressure for you the night before. All tires should have a PSI ‘range’ on the sidewall. Stick to that. If you commute each day, keep a good pump at home and maybe a smaller travel one in your bag. Like most maintenance in cycling, routine work prevents failures and expensive servicing. Check tire pressures once a week at least. 

Remember to get the right pump for the job. Try to stretch to a pump with a pressure gauge attached. You can buy separate pressure measuring gauges but most decent pumps have them attached these days. Track pumps have a much longer handle and push more air in for each stroke of the handle. They are less portable than standard hand-held pumps.

There are two main types of tire valve – presta (mainly found on thinner tires) and schrader (also found on vehicle tires). Schrader tires should not be inflated via a petrol station forecourt system as this releases the air far too quickly for bike tire design. The risk of a blow out is significant.

The more durable the tire, in most circumstances, the better protection from flats. There are various strips layered around the tire to prevent punctures. That is why you see some tires with nicks and cuts, but no history of punctures due to the resistance of these barriers around the circumference.

If you ride with a clincher tire (and most bikes still do), then you can opt for different types of material for your inner-tube which lets less air out over time. The regular inner tube material is known as butyl and actually holds up very well. Latex tubes are much more expensive but lighter. And thicker tubes made of the same material hold more air.

Another top tip is to shake the tube in a bag of talcum powder to reduce any rubbing on the inner tube’s surface. This reduction in friction limits the wear on the inner tube.

Paying for the extra protection of a rim strip or a tire liner is another relatively inexpensive tip. One fits onto the outer edge of the rim, where you can see the flat tips of the end of the spokes resting. The other slides onto the inside of the tire and each offers an extra layer of security against punctures.

Run your bike on good tires and replace them. Mileage tends to average out at around 3,000 but regularly check for signs of wear, damage, dry rot or thin metallic chords which might show through the compound.

A tubeless tire system has been advocated to reduce instances of a flat tire. There are two major reasons – the absence of an inner tube eradicates pinch punctures and then the liquid sealant plugs the small holes caused by surface debris. 

Bike Tire Pressure Guide (PSI*)

Refer to manufacturer’s range on sidewall of tire before inflating and never go above or below recommended tire pressures

Other factors which influence tire pressure guide

• Wheels come in different sizes which changes the pressure range
• Body weight: assuming a 165lb rider is running mid range of pressure, a 130lb rider could knock 20% off and a 200lb rider could add 20% – provided each rider stays within the limits of manufacturer’s range
• Cargo / carrying weight – increase pressure if you transport heavier equipment
• Lower pressures are more comfortable and promote more grip at the expense of speed
• Outside temperature: air is transported out of the tire around 2% quicker per 10° drop in Fahrenheit
• The trend has moved away from rock hard tires for speed less than maximum pressure to improve comfort and grip
• Tire widths are widening on road / hybrid / gravel bikes for comfort – narrow tires require a higher pressure

The post Why Do Bike Tires Lose Air? (PRESSURE LOSS EXPLAINED) appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

The Short Answer

Prevent bike chain rusting by keeping it dry and coated. After each ride, check cleanliness and apply rust-busting lubricant if necessary. For wet rides, use water-displacing spray, dry the chain, and apply lubricant drop by drop. Clean periodically with degreaser and brushes, then lubricate. Avoid lubricating a dirty chain.

A smooth-running bike chain is the heart of your well-oiled machine. Your energy is propelled by it. Its metallic silence provides you with a backdrop of pure joy when you are out in the countryside. The chain is your link to cycling bliss.

This collection of parts is easily the most complex and frequently used of the metal components on the bike. It moves every time we pedal, is normally untreated and runs close to the surface we are travelling on. Bare metal running close to grit, rain and mud – your chain needs some TLC to stop it from seizing and rusting.

Do Bike Chains Rust?

The chemical substance of the chain alters with the addition of oxygen from the air. This process is known as oxidation. Adding an accelerant (found in the damp, moist conditions of a garage or lock-up) enhances the process. Your chain corrodes and rusts, if left untreated. 

A rusting chain will quickly damage any of the other parts it comes into contact with. So, we’re talking about your crankset, front derailleur, rear cassette and rear derailleur. The performance of those parts will be very seriously compromised very quickly and damage your bank balance.

In addition, the reliability of your bike will be a constant concern. Finally, the noise of a grinding chain is just terrible. Like, fingernails on a chalkboard terrible.

Why Does My Bike Chain Keep Going Rusty?

Oxidation, the process by which your chain rusts, is a constant process. Untreated metallic objects which are exposed to oxygen, will always be prone to rusting. Even if you left your bike indoors, in a dry garage, during the summer. Oxygen in the air will always interact with it.

Your chain will keep going rusty if you don’t maintain a regular, habitual programme of treatment to control the exposure to the conditions which cause rust. In essence, this is a drying and lubricating process. You need to force the damp out and in its place, keep the metal coated to continually repel it.

The parts of your chain that rust are transformed into a new type of material known as iron oxide. It’s easily recognisable as being brown or reddish-brown. Other metals react to oxygen and moisture in the air but we don’t call it rusting. 

Acid rain contains sulphur which creates iron pyrite, otherwise known as ‘Fool’s Gold’. Silver is ‘tarnished’ and copper develops a ‘patina’ and these are all further examples of the corrosion of an exposed metal.

But it’s mainly iron or steel that rusts. Why is that? The science part is that these types of metal are in a very low state of thermodynamic stability. A 2019 study written by Muthaiah, Bhatia and Kannan talks about the differing conditions which exist in the environment that determine the rate at which metal objects decompose.

There are some more expensive chains on the market which receive a surface treatment. As well as offering reduced friction to give it a longer life, it also provides a coat to keep away moisture and oxygen.

In the upper echelons of professional cycling, where annual budgets run into the tens of millions for some teams, you will find chains constructed from titanium, or even pre-treated for use only in dry conditions. You’ll find that you get less than 400 miles out of one of these bad boys, all for around £134 / $154.  

Does WD-40 Prevent Rust on Bike Chain?

WD-40 offers a handful of products to prevent the progress of rust. Their stable of lubricants, specific rust removers, pentrants and degreasers are well-known. Their multi-use product will protect metal from rust and crucially, displace moisture as well as offering temporary lubrication.

Spraying with WD-40 will drive out the moisture as part of the chain cleaning and drying process. It’s necessary to ensure that as little of this spray comes into contact with disc brakes and any other braking surfaces. WD-40 is a very thin product which does wash off easily and is the subject of much debate about how effectively the standard product lubricates the chain. 

How To Stop Bike Chain Rusting [Five-Step Care Guide]

Preventing a bike chain from rusting requires a routine of small and regular actions after a ride. You don’t need to deep-clean your chain after every single ride, unless you are riding in wet, muddy or salty conditions every single time. Keeping your chain from rusting is not the same process as cleaning your chain.

The frequency and intensity of the treatment will depend upon the weather conditions you faced during your latest ride. Remedial treatments are available too if you fail to keep up this regular action. In most circumstances, chain maintenance should only take a few minutes. 

Even wiping off mud and dirt and drying the chain will improve the chances of eliminating rust. If you are planning to clean your chain and your bike, it is sensible to clean the chain first, then move onto the bike, because cleaning the chain does spray gunk, oil and road grit back onto the bike.

Bike Chain Care Guide

You’ll need to keep hold of the following for chain care:

• two fingernail brushes usually found next to a kitchen sink
• lint-free rags for drying 
• old newspapers to protect your bike and prevent the floor becoming slippery
• water-displacing spray
• degreaser
• cycle-specific chain lubricant 

Alternatively, your local bike shop or online retailer will sell you a kit if you’re starting from scratch. Replacement items are available separately.

Because we’re talking about routine and because the most effective time to start is just as you finish your ride, keeping things simple is easiest. 

Cleaning or not? – essential checks after each ride

Take a look at your chain after a ride and you’ll soon know how dirty it is. Can you see writing on the outside of each link? Is your cassette and chainset covered in muck and gunk? If you can’t see any imprinted markings, then it’s dirty and needs cleaning before you apply rust-busting lubricant.

If you’ve had a completely dry ride, and the chain is also dry and you can still feel some of the lubricant along the outer of the chain via finger touch, congratulations. If you’re riding the next day and leaving the bike indoors, you shouldn’t need any action. If you do store a bike outdoors, then why not consider giving it some shelter.

After a wet, but not dirty ride

Rainwater will remove prior lubrication from the chain and obviously the moisture will cause rust. You need to dry and lubricate what looks like a clean chain after a wet ride to prevent rusting.

Firstly, apply some water displacing spray. Place some newspaper underneath the chain and a piece between the back wheel and the chain to keep the spray from the rim.

From the chain side, rotate the crank backwards and spray down the chain as it leaves the derailleur or hub gear sprocket. Make sure you coat the whole chain.

Wiping off excess liquid and drying before lubrication

Wiping off excess water-displacing spray and drying the chain is important. Not only does it provide an extra step in removing moisture, it creates the driest, cleanest surface before lubrication. 

Wipe off the excess with a lint-free rag. Try to replace this once the rag itself gets covered in gunk, otherwise you’ll be wiping it back onto the chain. Kitchen roll is tricky for drying chains as it tears quite easily and can stick in the links and gear mechanism.

Lubrication

After drying, you will want to lubricate the chain. You can lubricate using an all-weather product, although some prefer a slightly thicker oil in the summer. A small bottle will last months for the average rider and they retail from as little as £3/$3.50.

Most lubrication is dispensed a drop at a time via a thin spout attached to the bottle. Again, rotate the crank arm backwards before you begin application. The best method allows one drop of lubrication per pin. There is no need to lubricate the entire link, it is unnecessary and wasteful.

If you don’t have time to dab each pin, you can rotate the crank slowly and drop the lubrication onto the chain. Just make sure you keep an eye on where you started and be sure to wipe off any excess. The thinner the lubricant, the more likely it is to drip off the chain. 

You may wish to put down some cloth below the chain from the cranks to the back of the rear cassette to avoid lubricant coming into contact with the floor. If you use paper towels or newspapers here, you risk the drips seeping through and making contact with the floor.

Cleaning your chain then preventing rust 

After a few hundred miles, or more frequently if you’re noticing how dirty the chain is in step one, it is going to need cleaning. This is where the degreaser and brushes come in. 

Treat the chain all over with your degreaser. Place the nail brushes in your left hand and clamp them around the chain. Not super-tight, but as if you were squeezing a tube of toothpaste without any actually coming out.

Turn the cranks anti-clockwise from the drive-side and rotate the brushes slowly in your left hand to treat the side, top and bottom of each chain link.

It doesn’t hurt to use these brushes on your cassette, chainrings and the small jockey wheels on any derailleur you have.

You can invest in a chain cleaning clamp which gives your chain a bath and also cleans thoroughly between the links using replaceable brushes and sponges. This is a deep-clean and would be recommended after most off-road rides or perhaps after a really wet ride.

After the chain has had its bath, you then dry it and then carry out the lubrication stage.

A clean chain is an effective chain, so it’s important to ensure that you look to keep your chain free of muck and grit that you pick up on a ride. There is no value in lubricating a dirty chain. 

If you apply lubricant to a dirty chain it might play a part in limiting rust. However, the cost to you of applying lube at this point will be to create a glue-like paste which grinds and destroys the chain and all of the parts involved in turning the pedals.

The post How to Stop Bike Chain Rusting: Step-by-Step Care Guide appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.