WD-40 can be used on a bike chain – but it will not offer the complete maintenance programme for one of the most essential pieces of equipment needed for the bicycle.

Twenty years ago, most hobby cyclists or infrequent commuters would think nothing of applying WD-40 to their chains. They would probably have seen it as an all-purpose oil or lubricant.

There was little competition for WD-40. In the UK, you could probably pick up some 3-in-1 oil in the metal can with a red spout. The can made a funny kerplunk noise when you depressed the walls.

The cycling maintenance industry has exploded in this time and now the chain routine involves, degreasing, bathing, wiping, drying, lubricating, and more wiping. This process should really take place once a week for the most efficient chain.

You could of course just use a belt-drive or shaft-drive bike and do without the chain.

However, WD-40 does have and can play a part in the longer chain maintenance process above. Just don’t tell the purists, or those who apply electric shock treatment to their chains, or buy gold chains.

What is WD-40 Used For?

Water Displacement, 40th formula – WD40 to you and me, ironically causes more friction amongst chain aficionados than any other product. Many would not have it anywhere near their bike’s drivetrain. Some say it’s a solvent, some say it’s a lubricant. It’s cheap, versatile, and likely to be found in any toolbox or under any sink.

In terms of understanding what it can do, there’s nothing better than reading the reviews. Here are some examples, including use on a bike chain: squeaky doors, oils up car parts, unseizes door locks, rubbing out scratches on stainless steel plate, keeps blades smooth and unsticking windows.   

One key benefit of WD-40 is that it loosens rusty parts. As well as a chain, on a bike this could be the nut and bolt for the front brakes, located behind the forks in a hard to reach place which attracts grime and a lot of water.

Another reason for using WD-40 is that it can clean and protect items from corrosion. This will be useful for a chain and alternatively there would be no harm in applying some to the other exposed metal parts of the bike. A rub on the cable ends underneath brake hoods, or springs inside derailleurs would not go amiss. 

We would not recommend spraying these areas due to the amount that would be used. WD-40 is tacky to the surface it bonds to after use and could collect dust and grit. Better to wipe everything down so that the thinnest coat only is on any surface.

A third choice for WD-40 is that it penetrates those stuck components which allows you to free them. It can easily get into the chain links and free them up for movement or could be used on the bolts which hold your bike wheels to the frame. These can seize quite easily as you don’t need to replace or take the wheels off that frequently.

Is WD-40 a Degreaser or Lubricant?

The go-to multi-use WD-40 can which is in every home toolbox or shed is described as offering protection and lubrication. It doesn’t mention degreasing. It can prevent mud and grime from metal products if delivered in a thin enough sheen. The fact that WD-40 offers its own bicycle degreaser away from the traditional multi-use WD-40 should influence the question. 

Can WD-40 Be Used to Oil a Bike Chain?

WD-40 can be used to lubricate a bike chain. The word oil is infrequently used. The thinnest of coats would need to be applied because it can attract grit. WD-40 can be said by aficionados to be too thin and drippy to be an adequate medium term solution to keeping a chain lubricated.

How to Lube a Bike Chain

After drying, you will want to lubricate the chain. You can lubricate using an all-weather product, although some prefer a slightly thicker oil in the summer. A small bottle will last months for the average rider and they retail from as little as £3/$3.50.

Most lubrication is dispensed a drop at a time via a thin spout attached to the bottle. Again, rotate the crank arm backwards before you begin application. The best method allows one drop of lubrication per pin. There is no need to lubricate the entire link, it is unnecessary and wasteful.

If you don’t have time to dab each pin, you can rotate the crank slowly and drop the lubrication onto the chain. Just make sure you keep an eye on where you started and be sure to wipe off any excess. The thinner the lubricant, the more likely it is to drip off the chain. 

You may wish to put down some cloth below the chain from the cranks to the back of the rear cassette to avoid lubricant coming into contact with the floor. If you use paper towels or newspapers here, you risk the drips seeping through and making contact with the floor.

Finally take a clean, lint-free cloth and wipe off any excess lubricant.

How Do You Clean a Bike Chain with WD-40?

The key to using WD-40 on a bike chain is to ensure it is as free of as much grime and grit as possible before you apply WD-40.

Remove the wheels

If you can remove your wheels at this point, then you should. Especially the rear wheel. If you can avoid contaminating other parts of your bike with specialist cleaning products intended for the chain then your bike will thank you for it by having a longer life.

Pre-clean the chain

If you’ve removed the wheels, you’ll still need to rotate the cranks. You can do this without the wheels but a cheap ‘dummy-hub’ will allow for smoother rotation. You can apply degreaser if you want to, some apply a hybrid of dishwashing liquid and degreaser to save a few pennies. You just want to remove as much of the grit and smaller particles as possible. The reason for this is that the WD40 will inevitably attract some bits of muck and road-dirt to it when you ride.

Cleaning the chain

We cannot emphasise enough that less is best in this situation. Drowning your chain in WD40 with a constant spray is both unnecessary, wasteful and time-consuming. We would recommend a short burst, perhaps like a graffiti artist and not going back over the same area. We would definitely recommend using the small red wand that attaches to the nozzle of the spray button for more accuracy. Keep a dry, lint-free cloth close by and immediately wipe off the residue.

The post Can You Use WD-40 on a Bike Chain? (USER GUIDE) appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

B is for Bobbin. So says the bright and fun introductory video of an English bike brand with Dutch DNA. It blends a passion for the Pantone colour palette to the traditions of elegant bicycle design. We can promise no lycra threads in this review of Bobbin.

Who Are Bobbin?

Bobbin is now included in the Kybotech Group portfolio of companies. This company specialises in online stores but has a leaning towards leisure products and outdoor furniture. The bike brand originated as the brainchild of Sian Emmison and Tom Morris. 

In an interview with Bloom in 2019, Emisson explained how, in the late noughties, as artists recently arriving in London from the Netherlands, they were surprised to see how few people were commuting by bicycle. After starting by selling other brands’ non-sporty bikes, they curated their own vision by getting a feel for what was popular in the UK capital and grew the company independently. 

Part of their success came from introducing stylish products which attracted a new community of customers. People who weren’t obsessed with sport and tech, but were interested in good design and beautiful things.

What Does Bobbin Specialize In?

Bobbin sells comfortable everyday riding, done in a relaxation reminiscent of the commuting around Amsterdam. The adult bikes look durable and come with the right amount of accessories, like a forgiving saddle, chaincase, mudguards / fenders and a rack. There are seven products in the adult range.

The Bobbin range of 15 bikes for children is very grown-up and follows the standard set by the adult range. Wicker baskets, stylish cream-coloured tyres surround wheels which come in many sizes to suit any growing brood. Starting with balance bikes, these run up to 26” diameter wheeled city bikes all in the same standout colourways.

The bell is a lovely touch but you’re sure to be noticed by the key marker of the entire range of the brand’s bikes – a nod to great vintage design and simplicity – which is complimented by the subtle pastel colour palette available across the range. They are beautiful bikes to behold.

Accompanying the bikes is a range of safety-certified helmets, different bells, lights and locks as well as tassels for the bar ends. These are aimed at the kids range. A Bike Sizing Quiz will help with frame selection and wheel diameter choice.

Not being preoccupied with tech really helps the pricing. These bikes are good value.

Are Bobbin Bikes Good?

Bobbin Bikes hit their mark. Users – thought mainly to be female at the same time as Sian Emisson’s Bloom interview – love the idea of cycling without racing. The Dutch influence is strong and users love the colours, the comfort of the saddle and practicality of the racks and accessories. 

I enjoyed one sporty, road focused user’s review who said his model reminded him of the bikes that older generations rode to work and the comfort of the grips and wider handlebars which encourage leisurely riding. Many British bike brands are drawing on the same heritage. The quality of the frame is a real standout and although the components are entry level, they are simple to maintain and adjust.

This meets our ideal of the philosophy of cycling for transport, for going to the local market or meeting friends. And it’s clear that the quality and accessories which come with the kids bikes goes down well with younger owners as well as their happy parents. 

The kids bikes are just as well made, just as colourful and robust. The brake levers are cleverly designed to be closer to the handlebars for smaller fingers to grip. The full chain guard on the Gingersnap model is pleasing on the eye. It’s good to see the emphasis on the fun and enjoyment in riding a bike. Expect to see Mums, Dads and kids all on colour co-ordinated models.

Is Bobbin Bikes a Good Brand?

Bobbin Bikes is distinct and clever by shifting the focus onto the lifestyle offered by owning its products. The founders spent a considered amount of time building a brand which emphasised the subtle and stylish way in which adults and children can move through cities at their leisure.

In the absence of any dedicated retail outlets (the company once ran a few pop-ups and boutiques in metropolitan capitals) the online store is simple to navigate and places the emphasis on the colours and style. The press list attached to the landing page is a real indicator of the brand influence – Vogue, Vanity Fair and Country Living scroll across a banner. 

The Instagram account places emphasis on happy riding in the countryside and the city. The founders, both originally artists, said the beautiful colours draw inspiration from Dutch artists, graphic designers and the creator of the children’s classic, The Moomins.

Where Are Bobbin Bikes Made?

Bobbin Bikes are designed in London, then pieced together in Asia and then shipped to a regional distribution centre back in the UK capital. The overwhelming majority of niche bike company products in this price point are built this way. Costs are reduced and savings passed onto the customer.

The company ships its products around the world. Assembly needs to be completed at home when you receive your Bobbin Bike. There are instructional videos on the site and not all tools are supplied. You’re likely to spend a bit more time putting together the adult version than the kids balance bikes.

Does Bobbin Bikes Make E-Bikes?

All Bobbin Bikes rely on pedal power only, or leg-power in the case of the Gingersnap and Moonbug balance bikes. 

Bobbin Bikes Review

Bobbin bikes are not heavily inspected by tech-focused junkies or weight weenies. They are loved by the design and lifestyle press. Their co-founders found a niche amongst city dwellers who didn’t want to be intimidated by going into a bike shop. 

The design influences and trusted frame design with a very relaxed riding position brings joy and takes complication out of stepping over the top tube of the bike. The subtle touches like the step-over frame and built in mudguards / fenders add to those pleasures in just getting out and about on your bike.

Branching out into a wider model range for children than adults is an inspired choice for this brand because as well as introducing kids to the fun of riding in a colourful and non-sporty way at an early age, the shared colour scheme with the adult bikes is almost certain to capture loyal families who will be repeat buyers.

The company’s Trustpilot is a rewarding 4.3 out of 5. Although the total number of reviewers is less than 400 as we write, nearly three-quarters are happy to give five stars out of five.

The quality of the frame and pleasure at first beholding the colour are key takeaways from the comments.

It will be interesting to follow the direction of the company as it sits under the umbrella of the new owners – will the values flow from the founders to the current custodians of the brand?

Best Adult Bobbin Bikes

Best Bobbin Kids Bikes

The post Bobbin Bikes Review: Are These Bicycles Worth The Penny? appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

Who Are Prevelo?

Prevelo are a bit nerdy about kids bikes by their own admission. Founded by Jacob Rehuban, the firm’s mission is clear. To design and manufacture bicycles specifically for children and ensure they are simple to ride, boosting a kid’s enjoyment and confidence.

The owner began tinkerring away at someone else’s bike and adding on parts. But the finesse and attention to detail in measurement of geometry that would put a physicist to shame is the company’s USP.

Keeping the frame angles tighter and the riding position lower to the ground inspires younger riders through an efficient pedalling style and comfortable handling. The lightweight materials reflect the dedication and commitment to respecting their younger customers’ requirements.

What Does Prevelo Specialise In?

The brand focus is clearly on light and strong bikes, made from high quality materials for younger riders who have fun riding and will instil a love of cycling which might come to them earlier in life than users of other bikes. Maybe the geek or aesthete is in the parents of Prevelo riders, too. 

The focus on lightweight frame materials, wedded to optional proprietary components such as cranks, will give a kid a riding experience unlike that of their friends whose parent buy off the shelf.

The options also provide more kerb appeal for kids too, with the chance for adding individual flavour to the stock ride.

Are Prevelo Bikes Good?

The Prevelo brand is well thought of by a wide range of cycling experts. It’s refreshing to see that key reviewers like Outside, Bike Radar, and even the Financial Times feature their machines. The business expert’s bible places them amongst the Americas’ fastest-growing companies for this year.

The range of bikes feature highly on multiple terrains, which is unusual for a kid’s machine. Normally, design and build focusses on asphalt, so surprises come in the form of testers from Berm Peak and Two Wheeling Tots, who all give props for the all-terrain bikes.

The feedback from kids is obviously a crucial test for parents and designers of Prevelo bikes. It seems that they couldn’t wait to jump back on after a ride. Having two kids gave Travis Reill the chance to write in Singletracks about their well-built aluminium frames, rear lever brakes and even internal cable routing. My gravel bike lacks that particular style cue!

Travis’ kids road-tested the Alpha Zero and Zulu Three models. He noticed his six-year-old son develop a much more recognisable pedalling style and praised the latter model for things like tubeless options and high-quality, reliable components never seen before on kids’ bikes.

Is Prevelo A Good Brand?

One characteristic of a good brand is to have a perception of good value that matches customer expectations. In this marketplace, the need for a cost-effective bike for each phase of the kid’s growth is crucial. I think Prevelo is a good brand because the cost of their machines does not reflect this idea that kids bikes are quickly replaced.

It’s important also to have an excellent delivery of the desired benefits of the brand. This means happy kids having fun. Toy manufacturers spend millions researching this. The beauty of bike riding is instant feedback and no need for focus groups answering questions around a table.

A kid will notice how a Prevelo feels underneath them and their smiles should be straightforward to monetise.

Being competitive, relevant and a bit of an outlier is helpful to any brand. The focus and determination to producing a kid-centric, light and well thought out ride wihch make a child’s development and confidence brighter on their bike seems to reflect the relevance and values of the Prevelo brand.

Where Are Prevelo Bikes Made? 

Prevelo Bikes, like the overwhelming majority of bike brands in the market today, are made in Asia. In Prevelo’s case, Taiwan and China. The brains trust resides in the USA – where most of the R&D, design and development takes place. They ship the bikes from Westlake Village in California.

Does Prevelo Make E-Bikes?

The Prevelo range is designed for kids. In most countries, e-bikes can only be ridden on public roads by those aged 14 years of age or older. It’s for this reason that we would guess that Prevelo only make balance bikes and pedal bikes which don’t benefit from electric power.

Prevelo Bikes Review

The evidence from the kids bikes and general cycling press is clear. Prevelo bikes are well thought of and you can take your pick of the reasons why. Starting with the frame, the most important part of the bike. The thoughtfulness behind a more slammed seatpost really allows for growth into the bike and maximising the value of the frame life. 

Frames have a quasi step-through design for comfort in getting on and off the bike. The accessories and in-house components called Heir show well. The specially designed shorter crank arms and their thoughtful construction are also highly thought off. Customer service is seen as good overall. Seeing WTB, normally a grown-ups brand, boosts the wow factor.

As well as a USA online shop, there is also UK distribution. Some of the models come with a base bike or the optional Heir model, which will include more of the Heir bespoke kit at an increased price.

Best Prevelo Bikes

There are 11 bikes in the Prevelop US store. Prices range from $219 for the Alpha Zero and top out at $1,099 for the 26-inch wheel Zulu 5, which is the wheel size used by young adults and even smaller frame adult riders. The featured models are all at the base range but it’s just a click on the US store to click to the tricked out Heir version.

The post Prevelo Review: Are These Kids Bikes Any Good? appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

As the largest joint in the human body, the knee is intricate and crucial for our movement. It is called upon so often and its many moving parts can be compromised and can cause pain to be felt in that area. Knee pain is one of the most frequent causes of GP appointments.

The knee is composed of four main components: bones, cartilage, ligaments and tendons.

Three bones meet to form the joint at the knee. The thigh bone and shinbone come together with the kneebone providing protection out front.

The tips of the thigh bone and shinbone are shrouded in cartilage, which helps the three bones maneuver amongst each other when you bend or straighten the leg. A tougher form of cartilage called a meniscus sits between the thigh bone and shinbone to act as a shock absorber between the two.

Ligaments and tendons join the thigh bone to the bones in your lower leg. They perform like ropes to provide stability to the knee and keep the bones held together.

Let’s look at how cycling can support the healthy development and action of the knee and how riding incorrectly might bring about the symptoms of knee problems. 

We’re not physiotherapists or GPs here at Discerning Cyclist and would recommend that anyone feeling knee pain should seek the attention of a medical professional.

Is Cycling Good for Knees? 

Cycling allows for gentle stretching and bending of the knee joint which helps keep it working. It helps to strengthen the muscles around the joint and they will absorb more of the impact of a fall. Cycling can also help reduce weight which also limits wear on the knee, especially as we get older.

Because you sit for the majority of your rides, you take the pressure off your knee joints. Altering your riding posture – forwards over the bars or leaning upright – moderates tired muscles. The slow and steady turning of the pedals exercise the knee from a variety of positions.

Can Cycling Cause Knee Pain? 

Knee pain is a common complaint amongst cyclists, especially when they overexert themselves. It affects newcomers to cycling, who need to build up strength and flexibility in the knee. In addition, new cyclists should ensure they have the correct bike fit for their posture and riding style.

The International Journal of Sports Physical Therapy reported in 2017 that the repeated turning of pedals makes the knee prone to injury. Chief among the factors influencing knee pain were foot position on the pedals, the height and fore/aft position of the saddle, the length of the bike’s cranks as well as power and cadence.

Only these last two factors are directly controlled by the effort we put into turning the pedals, which demonstrates how correctly positioning yourself on a bike that is set up for you is crucial to avoid knee pain. 

Is Cycling Good for Injured Knees? 

The key to exercising your way out of an injured knee is finding an activity which reduces any impact at the knee joint. This risk of further injury is limited and exertion on the joint itself is controlled. Cycling is a great low impact form of exercise. The joint bends and stretches only mildly.

The low impact and the weight-bearing nature of cycling mean that it’s a go-to activity recommended by the medical profession. We’ll look a bit more at the specifics of how cycling benefits the mechanics inside the knee.

Is Cycling Good for Knee Cartilage? 

Day-to-day cycling is good for knee cartilage. You’ll build up the leg muscles around the joint which regulate the forces placed on it and the meniscus. The routine of a commute allows control of your intensity. Over-exertion through heavy gearing on steep hills could actually harm the cartilage.

It’s important to listen to what your body is telling you and tailor the intensity to suit. Don’t try to power through any form of knee pain. The great thing about cycling is you can slow down – there’s no baseline beyond an unsafe minimum speed – if you are overdoing it.

Whilst walking and jogging are great forms of exercise and help with weight loss, they are impact exercises. Body weight, leg movement and momentum are forced through the knee joint. Cycling allows the body weight to be supported and because your feet are off the ground, there is no impact. 

Is Cycling Good for Knee Ligament Injury? 

Cycling helps recovery from knee ligament injury but must come after first stabilising and resting. Knee ligament injuries are associated with a blow, twist, or ‘pop’ and your knee feels like it is giving way beneath you. Stabilising the knee and reducing the inflammation takes priority.

Knee ligaments – the ropes joining the bones – need to heal, to knot back together. Restricting the movement of the knee is vital.

Strains or tears mean swelling and pain, so you’ll be looking at a brace and RICE (Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation) at first. The lack of activity, particularly on a healthy leg, will weaken the muscles and if you hop on the bike too quickly, you risk repeat injury. Your medical professional might include cycling as part of your strengthening and recovery once the knee is stable.

Is Cycling Good for Knee Arthritis? 

Arthritis is a painful inflammation and stiffness of the joints. It’s a common condition with a tendency to occur in people in their mid-forties. It also occurs as a result of other joint-related conditions. There’s no cure for arthritis, but the health benefits of cycling help ease the symptoms.

As well as the low-impact on the joints which we’ve covered, the regulated turning of the pedals actually lubricates the joints, which reduces the stiffness and pain. But it’s the support that low-intensity cycling can offer in terms of weight loss and improving the efficiency and effectiveness of the knee which helps reduce the stiffness. Cycling helps with your gait too and if you can stride more effectively, you’ll be helping to control the inflammation.

Can Cycling Relieve Knee Pain? 

Cycling benefits the knee and helps to relieve pain. Medical experts say riding – whether stationary or on the road – reduces levels of pain and stiffness while promoting movement. By strengthening the joint and lubricating it, riding your bike helps weight control to reduce the stress on the knee.

Following the advice of a medical professional is vital. Riding a bike to alleviate stiffness in the knee is lower risk than hopping over the crossbar straight after a ligament tear. 

Will Cycling Strengthen the Knees?

Even low-intensity cycling will improve the function of the knee joint and lower half of the body as well as reducing weight. Your aerobic fitness will escalate, your stride and gait will strengthen, the range of movement and flexibility in your thigh muscles, hamstrings and hips will widen. 

The stability and strength which forms in the legs through cycling all go to relieve and support the knee joint and alleviate pain. It’s important to emphasise that we’re talking about leisurely riding  – the type we prefer at Discerning Cyclist – for small intervals. 

Even five to ten minutes per day will provide hundreds of reduced-strain revolutions of the knee joint. If you wish to increase the intensity that’s fine. The complexity in the knee joint does allow you to have more of a ‘feel’ for problems. Always take medical advice and follow it. 

Cycling for Knee Pain: Good or Bad Idea? 

Riding a bike in order to help you through knee pain will be a good experience both directly or indirectly if you follow medical advice and do not overexert yourself. If you have the right bike set up and regain the strength and flexibility in the knee slowly, you’ll reap the benefits.

The benefit of being seated while exercising or rehabilitating cannot be overemphasised. Limiting the pressure on your joints helps get over the pain and being relatively comfortable also means you might actually enjoy your recovery. If not, you can make minor adjustments to your body position through small shifts on the saddle or handlebars.

Once you have established a comfortable riding position, you won’t even notice the frequency of your controlled movements and lose count of the number of lower leg muscles, joints and core elements of the body that are receiving a workout.

But just like any exercise or sport you might be considering, if you don’t take the right precautions, you could induce more problems than just in the knee. Keeping a stable position over the bike frame is crucial. If you crouch too far forward in a bid to become more aerodynamic and powerful, you’ll increase the strain on the knees.

When you ride uphill, choose a gear that allows you to keep a high cadence of between 70 and 90 rpm where possible. If you grind your way upwards, even with a bike fit, you risk serious tendon problems in the knee. 

Don’t be Bernard Hinault. The five-times winner of the Tour de France, cycling’s most prestigious race, was a famous over-geared rider. Tendonitis in the knee played a big part in him not winning more races. But we’re less interested in lycra.

Riding within your limits is important. Try to limit the causes of the knee pain. I once had four weeks off my bike by suffering a low grade medial collateral ligament (inside of the knee) tear. My knee suffered a traumatic twisting impact on the pedal – while coming down from pulling a wheelie!

The post Cycling for Knee Pain: Is Riding a Bicycle a Good Idea?  appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

If you’re considering buying an e-bike you should have a look at what’s covered by the warranty. You might be swapping a few car journeys to work for commutes on two wheels and if your motor vehicle manufacturer offers protection against manufacturing default then so should your new ride.

What is an E-Bike Warranty?

An e-bike warranty is a written guarantee of what you can expect from a bike brand following a failure of listed parts of the bike, including the frame. It shows the circumstances under which the warranty will respond, or not, to a problem which needs fixing. It provides significant peace of mind. 

Most e-bikes are made with parts which come from different manufacturers. Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo are the world leaders in building components. They attach these to frames which in most cases are designed and manufactured by the brand whose name is stuck onto the down tube of the bike. 

And of course, there are the electric parts. E-bikes usually either get all their power delivery and motors from one brand source such as Bosch or Yamaha; alternatively, some electric-only bike brands provide the power from units they manufacture themselves.

A warranty is in most cases for the original owner only. You must register your details as the new owner as soon as you buy the bike. In a bid to become more environmentally responsible and solidify the brand as sustainable, some manufacturers offer a second-owner warranty. Various aspects of a warranty will be offered on a replacement or repair basis.

A warranty is a legal contract. The wording is required to be balanced and straightforward. You should not have to be a lawyer to understand a warranty. Other rights such as guarantees or legislation protecting your rights as a consumer will not be affected by a warranty. 

It’s important to look at warranties with your eyes open. They will tend to only cover very rare, or unexpected failures. Deliberate misuse and wear and tear are not covered. Most won’t cover any damage caused by being involved in races or any commercial activity. You may even need to service your bike to a set standard to be covered.

Before you buy an e-bike, it will pay to examine these warranties in detail. Start by looking at the bike brand’s website. Is the warranty offer prominently placed and easy-to-read? Does the length of the warranty – usually measured in years – seem fair and reasonable for your use and needs? We’ll have a closer look at frames and batteries specifically.

Does the process of claiming under the warranty seem straightforward, or murky? And what is excluded? Does the brand seem like it will support your claim, or put barriers in your way to knowingly put you off? Read forums and reviews for guidance and real world opinions.

Warranties are included in the original purchase price of the electric bike. You’ll need to retain your invoice or receipt and you should know and note your e-bike’s serial number. 

Electric Bike Frame Warranty

An electric bike frame warranty must be a high priority for any buyer. It’s the body on which the components hang, including the battery, motor and wheels. It should include the forks too. The bicycle brand should also hang its reputation on the length of the warranty – that’s your guide to their confidence in their own product.

Bigger bike brands will usually include all of their own built frames under one umbrella. For example, Giant includes Liv and Momentum under their warranty. Remember that the frame will most-likely be the most expensive item to replace. 

The frame should be the strongest and most reliable element of the e-bike. The forks are really the only moving part of it which reiterates that the better manufacturers put more faith in their work with a longer frame warranty.

Carbon fibre cracks and serious defects are most likely to be claimed under an e-bike frame warranty. There are exclusions like inaccurate self-assembly or the addition of parts that aren’t compatible with the bike sold. Strapping an after-market 1000Watt motor or throttle to boost the limited top speed of a pedelec from 25kph to 45kph will invalidate the warranty of the frame. It wasn’t built to support those speeds.

Paint and decals will not have the same length of warranty as the manufactured or machined parts of the frame.

Electric Bike Battery Warranty

The electric bike battery is likely to be the single most expensive component on the average e-bike. Its performance is vital for the performance of the electric bike and most should offer at least 800 full charges before it needs replacing. 

The cheaper, heavier lead-acid batteries which come with the least expensive bikes usually have shorter-length warranties. The better Lithium-ion battery warranties will most likely be at least double the length of a lead-acid variant.

There will always be key exclusions in the warranty of an electrical product that might seem meaner than other parts of the bike. Storage, frequency of charging, the intensity of exposure to water and other elements, as well as use will all impact the warranty. A battery with only 100 full charges left which proves to be defective will attract a reduction in the value of the warranty compared to one which is only 100 charges old.

How Long is a Typical E-Bike Warranty? 

A typical e-bike warranty will run between one and two years. Frames, motors, batteries, wheels and components have different warranty lengths. The most important are going to be the frame, forks, motors and batteries. Protect safety as much as a bank balance. Longer warranties mean higher quality.

VanMoof, Cowboy Bikes and Himiway offer a two-year warranty on frames and components. Cowboy Bikes will permit any remaining part to a new owner. Tenways offer a very clear breakdown of the length of warranty for different parts on a landing page, going up to five years for the frame. 

E-Bike Brand Warranties 

Do E-Bike Warranties Cover the Battery?

Most e-bike warranties will cover the battery. As we’ve discussed above, the right to claim under an electrical warranty depends on different conditions than a mechanical warranty or frame warranty. Most coverage will be upon a total failure in performance, not simply a reduction in performance.

From our list above, the summary of coverage included the battery so we did not have to look far for peace of mind. However, it’s worth noting that the warranty length on most of these units is shorter than the charging lifespan of most of the batteries. 

Crucially, the terms and conditions for a battery to be covered under warranty will be just as specific as you will see for claims under the frame warranty. 

How Long Should an E-Bike Last?

An e-bike should last as long as any bike. A well-built electric bike, which is serviced and maintained carefully and frequently should last years and years. Individual parts are usually readily available and many are interchangeable. Cycling as a mode of transport is highly sustainable.

The battery will eventually need replacing and motor servicing will also be necessary. Electric bikes should be placed in the hands of the correctly trained personnel for this work unless you want to risk voiding your warranty. 

The better battery manufacturers will look to avoid any planned obsolescence which plagues the sportier side of cycling. They should design their newer, lighter, more efficient batteries to fit into the docks of older e-bikes.

E-Bikes with 3+ Year Warranty 

Electric Bike Extended Warranty: Where to Get One

We’ve established that the average e-bike frame and battery warranty is around two years. Some manufacturers offer a longer warranty within their pricing as a mark of trust and confidence in the product. We’ve also landed on around three years as a minimum battery life if used regularly without high stress.

You may wish for more peace of mind and comfort in extending your warranty further. There are other electrical elements to an e-bike such as the motor, or display. You can shop around online or at the counter of some local bike shops for an extended warranty.

You might be happy with the lifetime offer on your frame but want more for your battery, especially if you are a very light user of the charging device. You may be able to find one like E-Life Guard Protection which covers the battery and motor, plus the cost of parts and labour.

Extended warranties tend to come in two, three, or four year options. Getting an extended warranty is essentially the same as a new warranty, via registration. The warranty company may not be a specialist in the repair of your e-bike. It’s more than likely that they will have an approved repairer service. Therefore it’s important to check your local coverage before you sign up.

The post E-Bike Warranty: How Long Do Electric Bike Warranties Last? appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

Have you wondered why bicycle wheels come in different sizes? Why some models of mountain bikes have a choice of 26 inch diameter or 29 inch diameter rims? Do you know your rotational energy from your gyroscopic stability? 

The bike is a fascinating, ongoing physics experiment. In its simple terms, to move forwards you’re only adding the physical capabilities of the body to the relative simplicity of the mechanical advantage gained whilst pedalling. 

From this template, it’s been relatively simple for boffins to experiment, research and develop those terms learned in science lessons. They’re investigating acceleration, air and wind resistance, inertia, aerodynamics and friction. 

But then lower-cost testing by passionate enthusiasts out of a Californian garage and an accident of availability helped to create the first mountain bike wheels and a dedicated mind created a stowaway with 17 inch wheels. Vast budgets and multi-million pound wind-tunnel testing is often saved for Olympians with wings.

The size, weight and rigidity of wheels all contribute to the maximum speed that a person can reach on a bike and the time it takes to get there. To most people, faster can mean the ability to move quickly, or taking a comparatively shorter time to get somewhere.  

We’ll examine the reasons why different wheel sizes make you faster in different circumstances and also look at some of the more practical reasons for different wheel sizes. This isn’t a science assignment and wheel size can be as much to do with practicality, marketing and gimmicks as the attainment of speed.

There are definitely reasons other than speed and going faster that should influence your choice of wheel size.

Bicycle Wheel Sizes

We’ve come a long way from the Penny Farthing. Road, hybrid and gravel bikes are now rooted to a 622 millimetre (mm) wheel diameter known as 700c. This default size is a European concept from the 1970s. There are small variations around that width for specialist wheels. A smaller version known as 650b is 584mm in width and is increasing in popularity.

Mountain bike rims vacillate between 660.4mm and 736.6mm – the higher amount known as a 29er. These differences are to control comfort and handling. Folding bikes typically operate with a 406.4mm to 508mm rim diameter.

Their size is largely practical to assist with the fold but there are some advantages. If you want practicality and standard diameter rims, you can have that too.

Does Bike Wheel Size Affect Speed?

Bike wheel size is defined by the science behind bike manufacture. Bike manufacturers need sales. Speed sells and road bikes came first. Constant speed is a mainstay of road cycling. A larger wheel helps you to hit a constant speed. A smaller wheel will accelerate faster to reach that speed.

But in the real world, the answer is – it depends. As you change the wheel size of a bike you change many of the dynamics and characteristics which make up speed. The forces a person can deliver through a BMX are very different to a commuting bike with the same gear ratio. 

Wheel size also influences the tyre pressure you can obtain, which influences stability on the bike and rolling resistance. Wheel size also influences comfort, fatigue, friction, aerodynamics, stopping and wind resistance. 

Do Bikes with Larger Wheels Go Faster?

Larger wheels tend to be heavier than smaller wheels and they can hold speed for longer because increased mass allows an object to have greater conserved momentum. The physics suggests you’ll be able to maintain a faster speed for longer with a larger wheel because it has more mass. 

Of course, you could make a large and small wheel have the same mass by using different materials. But then momentum is equally influenced by the area of an object as much as its mass. A bigger wheel has the bigger area of the two. Therefore more momentum. 

In practical terms, a bigger wheel slows down less quickly than a smaller wheel of the same weight. So, in a straight commute on a comfortable road surface, larger wheels will decelerate less than smaller wheels. 

You have to put more effort into turning a big wheel but it will go faster if you can keep it spinning at the same rate as a small one. 

Do Smaller Bike Wheels Go Faster?

A smaller wheel accelerates more rapidly than a larger wheel. Everything else being equal they have lower mass. A smaller wheel should have less wind resistance. But their size can influence the feeling of the surface beneath them and they deal with obstacles differently too.

Imagine if your commute to work involved riding up and down curbs. Now think about the relative difficulty involved in negotiating those curbs on a pair of in-line skates compared to a tractor. 

Or perhaps more practically, think about a pothole in the road. The smaller wheel of a folding bike means that an obstruction is going to be larger and your ride becomes rougher. A smaller rim can mean a shorter spoke, which is a little more rigid for a firmer ride.

But if your journey to work involves dozens of stop-starts across traffic lights then you’ll be grateful for the fast acceleration of a smaller wheel. 

Conclusion: Are Bigger Bicycle Wheels Faster?

Bigger means better for relaxed riding and control. Fast road bikes, hybrid bikes and commuter bikes rely on maintaining a constant speed with few reasons to change direction. That means maintaining momentum and bigger wheels do that. But a smaller wheel in certain circumstances is quicker.

A smaller wheel fits into a smaller frame and is stiffer and potentially less aerodynamic. You could therefore transfer more power into the pedalling action and cheat more of the wind.

Bikes with smaller wheels might climb hills better because it takes less effort to accelerate them. There’s even the notion that a smaller wheel means you run less risk of your toe clipping the tyre when you turn. Smaller riders are moving towards 650b wheel sizes for comfort and practicality.

Ultimately, your own fit and positioning on your bike are the most important factors in determining what size wheel you want to ride.

The post Are Bigger Bicycle Wheels Faster? (ANALYSIS) appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

Close your eyes and imagine what an e-bike looks like and your mind probably won’t be drawing a road bike. You’ll probably think of a hybrid, a cargo-bike or mountain bike.

Road bikes joined the mass e-volution of electric bikes slightly later. Perhaps there was less need for pedal assistance as road bikes might have been seen to represent the pinnacle of human-powered transport.

But road bikes are great e-bikes, especially for long rides, for going up hills you might never have considered and generally riding further, not necessarily harder. Their design has moved closer to the traditional looks of the road bike than at any time previously. This guide should help you find the best road electric bikes.

Best Road E-Bikes

What is a Road Electric Bike?

A road e-bike is a road bike designed and engineered to offer electric pedal assistance when a rider requires it. Road electric bikes have featured somewhere down the queue in terms of sales, research and development. This might be because there are other, more suitable, egalitarian uses for electric power when it comes to bikes.

Sure, the road bike might possess more ‘thoroughbred’ kudos than other bikes. The perception is that road bikes are used by those riders who prioritise fitness and goals over outside assistance. And roadies have the reputation of being lycra-clad weekend warriors for whom pounding the roads with pedal power might be their only exercise. The road bike might not be their main form of transportation – for work or for commercial purposes.

Other bikes like commuters, city bikes, Dutch-style bikes and of course mountain bikes, have called for electrical support first. But a road electric bike has loads going for it. If you want to cycle further than before, tackling more and steeper hills whilst benefitting from all the fitness perks and speed of road riding, then an e-bike might be for you.

And road electric bikes are slimmer and more hidden than they ever have been. Super-sleek batteries slip inside the bike’s down tube or in some cases are camouflaged as a water bottle!

Many of the batteries we’ve seen on road e-bikes cannot be removed without removing the bike’s bottom bracket. So that’s great for security but will require more specialised kit and effort for maintenance and servicing.

Buttons and controllers are minimised so as not to affect the aerodynamics and manufacturers are clearly committed to mimic the styling and aesthetic of a regular road bike.

Charging can be as straightforward as other electric models although there is more call for road bikes with their hidden batteries to be fully plugged into the wall – bike and all. You don’t often see monstrous 500Watt or 1,000Watt motors strapped to a road e-bike, despite their huge potential for torque.

The electric road bike shouldn’t necessarily need these big boosts of power. Pedal-assisted speeds are limited in the UK / Europe to 15mph with the motor only operating during pedalling and 20mph or 28mph in the USA. For that reason, you might expect to see more road e-bikes with a rear hub motor than the crank-based version more often seen on commuter and city bikes, where more torque is needed.

A small rear hub creates a more natural feel than a crank-based system and helps the aesthetic, weight and balance of a road bike. It’s fair to suggest that you might spend more time on a road bike out of the pedal-assist mode and so having a similar feel to an acoustic bike sensation will be important.

Components elsewhere on the bike are just the same as their ‘analogue’ siblings in the same range. As you’ll see, the major worldwide global road bike brands have been quick to adopt electric versions of their entire range of road bike models.

Who Are Road E-Bikes For?

Anyone who wants one. You will get most of the same aerodynamic features and weight saving of the standard road bike. Visually, you could be forgiven for finding it difficult to spot the differences between the two types. And that’s no accident.

Many of the design, engineering and sportier riding positions for road bikes will be the same on the e-version. They might weigh a little bit more and the handling might not be as finely tuned and responsive. But most of us aren’t Tour de France pedigree racehorses and all of our exercise regimes could be enhanced by an e-bike.

The tech on the bike is sleek with many controllers and displays built into the frame, which reduces cabling and drag. Most of the e-bikes on display here will have an app for your smartphone which can variously measure your cadence, remaining charge and some offer turn-by-turn guidance.

The power mode of your motor can be selected from your phone as well as your top tube or controller. They’ll be a great place to log your rides too.

If you love riding along country roads for hours and tackling long climbs in your area or have commutes over 20 miles/32 kilometres each way all along roads without needing to carry much on your back, then you might already be considering an road e-bike.

Road Electric Bikes Pros + Cons

Best Road Electric Bikes

1. Trek Domane+ AL 5

• £3,200
• $4,010
• €3,628

Prices are approximate

Weight: 14.06kg (31lb) for 56cm model

Wattage: 250W (250W in UK & EU) 

Max. Range: 55 miles (90 km)

Gears: 2 x 11 speed 

Wheel Size: 700c x 21mm inner width

Max Load: 125kg (275lb) – combined mass of bike, rider and cargo

Removable Battery: – housed inside down tube

Throttle:

Lights:

Fenders: mounts for optional installation

Pannier Rack: mounts for optional installation

Built on the brand’s most comfortable, all day road-riding platform. Lightweight alloy frame with carbon fork and the Shimano 105 drivetrain is very reliable. Adaptable and flexible for commuting, using wider 32mm tyres, carrying and riding longer distances. Three pedal-assist modes accessed from a button near the hoods. Good range and simple in-built design and housing of the battery and controls.

Pros

• Stable and comfortable ride geometry
• Option to double battery range to 110 miles with a frame-mounted add on pack
• Rear hub motors promote a more natural ride feel

Cons

• If you are fit enough, you might rarely need the pedal assistance

Check Price

2. Specialized Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon

• £3,999 (sale price)
• $5,026
• €4,569

Prices are approximate

Weight: not included in technical specifications

Wattage: 240W (240W in UK & EU) 

Max. Range: 80 miles (129 km)

Gears: 1 x 11 speed 

Wheel Size: 700c x 20mm outer width

Max Load: not included in technical specifications

Removable Battery:  – housed inside down tube

Throttle:

Lights:

Fenders: mounts for optional installation

Pannier Rack: mounts for optional installation

A race-pedigree full carbon chassis is lightweight and has been paired with the proprietary SL 1.1 motor. This is a pedal-drive motor built to deliver consistent torque from 60 – 110 rpm. The range is impressive for a 240W motor. A 1x system, Shimano GRX and dampened steering should get you off the road as well as dealing with urban potholes easily. This is bike is designed with harder training in mind.

Pros

• Good range
• In-house motor designed for wide torque range
• Lightweight carbon frame with some endurance tweaks

Cons

• Discounted price may not be available in your size, colour or region

Check Price

3. Ribble Endurance AL e – Sport

• £1,999
• $2,527
• €2,254

Prices are approximate

Weight: not included in technical specifications

Wattage: 250W (250W in UK & EU) 

Max. Range: not included in technical specifications

Gears: 2 x 10-speed 

Wheel Size: 700c x 22.5mm outer width

Max Load: not included in technical specifications

Removable Battery: – housed inside down tube

Throttle:

Lights:

Fenders: mounts for optimal installation

Pannier Rack:

A great entry into the world of road bikes and e-bikes. Mahle’s X35+ system is selected with a hub-drive system with enough torque for club rides and regular hills on training rides. The Shimano Tiagra system is reliable for an entry level bike without being the lightest on offer. Ribble is a brand which attracts awards for design and has adopted many fans of its pricing.

Pros

• good price point
• reliable motor/battery combination
• same geometry as acoustic model

Cons

• need to price up for hydraulic discs

Check Price

4. Orbea Gain M30

• £3,362
• $4,249
• €3,790

Prices are approximate

Weight: 12kg (26.5lbs)

Wattage: 248W (248W in UK & EU) 

Max. Range: 60 miles (97 km)

Gears: 2 x 11 speed 

Wheel Size: 700c x 22.7mm outer width

Max Load: not included in technical specifications

Removable Battery: – housed inside down tube

Throttle:

Lights:

Fenders:

Pannier Rack:

Orbea has concentrated its efforts in creating a single interface allied to a Mahle Ebikemotion X35 motor and battery. The rear hub-drive contains a sensor which monitors the pedalling input to control the flow of power. Shimano’s 105 R7000 groupset is incredibly reliable and the finishing is high quality mid-range kit. This bike is aimed at enthusiastic trainers and athletes.

Pros

• thoughtful interface promises easy charging and selecting power
• carbon monocoque frame and fork is fast
• built-in lights and finishing kit

Cons

• relying on one interface requires very reliable tech and wiring

Check Price

5. Ribble Endurance SL e – Enthusiast

• £3,999
• $5,054
• €4,508

Prices are approximate

Weight: 11.94kg (26.26lb)

Wattage: 250W (250W in UK & EU) 

Max. Range: not included in technical specifications

Gears: 2 x 12-speed 

Wheel Size: 700c x 22.5mm outer width

Max Load: not included in technical specifications

Removable Battery:  – housed inside down tube

Throttle:

Lights:

Fenders: mounts for optimal installation

Pannier Rack:

Moving up from Ribble’s AL range is the SL model. A full carbon endurance frame and fork is paired with Mahle’s X35+ motor. Shimano’s newest 105 Di2 groupset offers precise electronic shifting with hydraulic brakes. Mavic provide some great Ksyrium S rims. This is amplified riding aimed at sporty training rides. The carbon fibre frame and fork brings the weight down.

Pros

• Outstanding low-to-mid range groupset
• ‘Barely there’ motor and battery aesthetic
• Wireless shifting

Cons

• it might only suit those more confident, aggressive training rides

Check Price

6. BMC Roadmachine AMP TWO

• £5,775
• $7,299
• €6,510

Prices are approximate

Weight: not included in technical specifications

Wattage: 250W (250W in UK & EU) 

Max. Range: 87 miles (140 km)

Gears: 2 x 12-speed 

Wheel Size: 700c x 25mm outer width

Max Load: 120kg (265lb) – combined mass of rider and bike

Removable Battery: – housed inside down tube

Throttle:

Lights:

Fenders:

Pannier Rack:

A lightweight carbon frame is combined to a Mahle X20 motor hub-drive set up. This has been developed to remove any lag in the pedal motion when riding with pedal assistance and delivers smooth torque through the process. SRAM RIVAL and FORCE components with wireless eTap shifting. Endurance geometry and racing cues with up to 20mph pedal assistance (where legal) makes this a fast racer.

Pros

• Mahle X20 system feels natural
• Balanced and low centre of gravity
• Excellent groupset

Cons

• Pricey
• Colour

Check Price

7. Cannondale Topstone Neo 5

• £4,391
• $5,550
• €4,951

Prices are approximate

Weight: not included in technical specifications but M model reviewed at 18.37kg / 40.5lbs

Wattage: 250W (250W in UK & EU) 

Max. Range: 70 miles (113 km)

Gears: 1 x 11-speed 

Wheel Size: 700c x 27.5mm

Max Load: not specified in technical specifications

Removable Battery:

Throttle:

Lights:

Fenders: Mounts for optional installation

Pannier Rack: Mounts for optional installation

This bike suits your more adventurous side and is gravel focused. The higher torque Bosch Performance Line Speed will provide pedal assisted speed up to 28mph (where legal). The drive system is crank-powered. The groupset is Shimano’s GRX range so you are dialled in to a gravel experience. Wheels and tyres are multi-terrain oriented.

Pros

• Top speed
• Torque will flatten mountains
• Good range

Cons

• less race-focussed than other road e-bikes

Check Price

The post Best Electric Road Bikes: 7 Picks for All Budgets in 2024 appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

The Short Answer

The Brompton A-Line is an introductory model with a single white steel frame and 3-speed gears, while the C-Line offers more design options, including different handlebars and gearing, and comes in three models: Urban, Utility, and Explore.

Whilst waiting at some traffic lights on a recent ride into the city, I was able to admire the engineering and styling of a minimalist, black Brompton folding bike. Its rider was wearing work clothes on a sunny morning, carried no bags, and was capped off with a pair of Ray-Bans and no hi-viz.

I think their brand department would have enjoyed this image. Brompton is easily the best known brand within the folding-bike market, and it’s clear to see the movements it has made to take its ergonomically-packaged products away from under the desks of professorial, buttoned-up types, and onto the more widely welcoming longer commutes of a band of potential customers who are getting lifestyle cues from their local cycle lanes.

Discerning Cyclist is a fan of the brand’s patented ingenious designs, function and ease of transportation. They are comfortable to ride and very well made. They’re expensive, but in spite of competition from cheaper sources, their annual sales to the end of March 2022 topped £100 million.

Nearly three-quarters of their bikes were sold in the export market, and they recently announced a plan to open an eco-friendly factory and HQ in the South East of England.

By their own admission, Brompton needed to move away from some of the naming conventions and combinations available within their product line and make the process of choosing a new model easier and clearer to understand. With the launch of lighter frames, improved transportation solutions, eBikes, a subscription service, and with 80 hire pods popping up across UK cities, the brand needed to clear up any customer confusion, especially with its most popular models at the base of the range.

At the same time as refining the product range, the company came up with a new naming convention at its keenest price points and under the stiffest competition – the A Line and the C Line. We’re going to take a look at these models below and hopefully help you identify some of the key differences.

The C Line includes an electric option which we will exclude from this feature, as there is no A Line version to which we can compare.

Brompton does away with the hyphen. But not the dash.

It says the A Line (previous name Brompton B75) is the ‘perfect introduction to city cycling’ . It’s a pared-down model, comes supplied in a single gloss painted white steel handmade frame, the most well-known three part folding mechanism and easily-maintained gearing.

The C Line is the new name for the original model and keeps the same elementary and functionally simple elements as the A Line but brings new design cues and riding options to broaden the brand appeal to newer customers, beyond the Monday to Friday commute.

Brompton A-Line vs C-Line

	A-LINE	C-LINE
Model Range:	One model only	Three models – Urban, Utility, Explore
Folded Size:	64.5cm (H) x 58.5cm (W) x 27cm (D)	64.5cm (H) x 56.5cm (W) x 27cm (D)
Frame:	Main: Precision drawn heat-treated steel tubing with hand brazing and selected auto-brazed joints. Rear: Hand brazed cold-formed micro-alloy steel tubing	Main: Precision drawn heat-treated steel tubing with hand brazing and selected auto-brazed joints. Rear: Hand brazed cold-formed micro-alloy steel tubing
Fork:	Steel brazed fork	Steel brazed fork
Wheel Size:	16″	16″
Weight:	25lb (11.5kg)	(From): 24.8lb (11.2kg)
Gears:	3-speed hub gears	2,3 or 6-speed
Wheels:	28-spoke, double-wall rims, internal gear hub	28-spoke, double-wall rims, internal gear hub
Tyres:	349 x 35C Schwalbe Marathon Racer	349 x 35C Schwalbe Marathon Racer with reflective sidewalls
Pedals:	Non-folding composite pedals	Brompton folding left-hand and non-folding right-hand pedals
Lights:	Front and rear reflectors	Front and rear reflectors
Fenders:	Available separately	Included
Handlebars:	Mid	Low, Mid, High options
Pannier Rack:	Front carrier included separately	Adaptor included to accept Brompton luggage (purchased separately)
Colour Options:	White	Three at entry-level, rising to nine for the C Line Explore
Estimated Price:	£899 $1,118 €1,016	£1,250 $1,555 €1,413

A-Line vs C-Line: Key Differences

Both models offer the classic Brompton fold which can be negotiated in under ten seconds, carrying the legacy of founder Andrew Ritchie’s 1975 design.

The A Line is the company’s most essential and robust model with one colour, three speed gearing and packaged as a one-size fits all model.

The C Line offers gearing and component options and different colourways.

Weight

Weight differences are negligible. The one-size-fits-all approach to the A Line means one weight too – 11.5kg. The C Line Urban sheds less than a pound at 11.35kg and increases to 11.8kg for the Utility then 12.2kg for the Explore.

Gearing

The A Line three-gear selection comes from a hub gear, sealed from the elements within the rear wheel. Hub gears allow for stationary shifting, which is efficient when stopping and setting off regularly. The A Line chainring is a 44 tooth.

The C Line offers two-speed gears in the Urban model, three-speed in the Utility model and six speeds for the Explore model. The Urban rolls with a 54 tooth chainring, dropping to 50 teeth on the Urban and Utility models.

Handlebars

The A Line features the Mid level handlebars only for the classic experience and the C Line can be acquired with a choice of Mid, Low or High handlebars. The High suits the ‘Dutch’ style of riding and the Low is the most focussed. The handlebar choice is particularly relevant to taller or shorter riders.

Extras

The A Line is stripped of some of the creature comforts of the C Line model and that will no doubt help its price point. Rest assured that the classic Brompton fold and compact carrying is unaffected. The folded dimensions of the A and C Lines are broadly the same. Brompton sells a range of tailored add-ons to standard models.

1. Brompton A Line

• £899
• $1,118
• €1,086

Prices are approximate

Folded Size: 64.5cm (H) x 58.5cm (W) x 27cm (H)

Weight: 25.57lb (11.6kg)

Gears: Three-speed hub behind a 44-tooth chainring

Pricing

Designed with city-riding in mind

Low maintenance gearing

The A Line is a single bike. It only comes in one colour. You get the classic Brompton fold and carry experience. It’s made in the same factory to the same standards as the C Line.

You don’t get some of the features that you might miss if you cycle in most weathers and want to take some gear with you.

You can always add these if you want at a later date and out of the box you still get the essence of the classic Brompton experience.

Buy Here

2. Brompton C Line

• £1,250
• $1,555
• €1,413

Prices are approximate

Folded Size: 64.5cm (H) x 56.5cm (W) x 27cm (D)

Weight (from): 24.69lb (11.2kg)

Gears: 2,3 or 6-speed

Gearing options widens riding comfort over distances

Mudguards/Fenders as standard

Choice of colours

Described as the ‘classic’ overall Brompton experience, the C Line has the built in features you may (or may not) one day yearn for –  like mudguards/fenders and the front carrying block for luggage options and the possibility of a road lit by batteries or dynamo.

There are three models in the range, Urban, Utility and Explore. The gearing gets wider to match the breadth and depth of your adventurousness or needs. The weight differences are negligible and the folding experience is the same.

 

Buy Here

Which is Best: Brompton A-Line or C-Line?

By their own code, the C Line appears to deliver the classic Brompton experience. It’s possible that this is because the features and out-of-the-box ride offers more opportunities than the A Line.

Bromptons have been taken all around the world on multiple surfaces. But if your day-to-day riding goes beyond a handful of kilometres in one go and in all weather, the C Line might be better.

The A Line might be best if you are one of the growing number of people whose life is 100% in the city and you need to use a bike as a transportation tool, maybe from cab to tube, to office, or for covering that part of a journey to supermarket, urban coffee stop or catching up with friends.

The single paint option of the A Line might make some riders think that they are part of a fleet – good or bad, whereas the colourways and other options of the C Line allows a little more scope for individuality.

The post Brompton A-Line vs C-Line: Four differences to know appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

Riding comfortably with SPD pedals takes a degree of skill which can be a hazard when riding in the city. I use my gravel bike on all commuting roads, disused railway line beds and some trails. A small, rounded SPD pedal allows for quicker riding, more ground clearance and purchase if you want to go for a Strava PB.

You don’t need to think about records when you are cycling to work or study. SPD pedals use a clip-in system with cleats you attach to a shoe. This requires a certain amount of dexterity. Repeated clipping in and out is rare on long road rides and trails without traffic or traffic signals.

City riding requires you to put your foot on the ground regularly. It’s not common to see a cycle specific shoe in the urban environment. A platform pedal feels more appropriate. 

When riding in the city, I felt I needed:

• As much contact with the pedal as possible
• Grip
• Comfort
• Support for resting the bike on kerbs

Some bike pedals come with orange reflectors but many bought off the shelf don’t have any at all. So any extra visibility offered would be a bonus.

After only having used SPD style pedals in the last 15 years but having ridden platform pedals on hire bikes, I was keen to see how my own bike rides would adapt with the MOTO Reflex Flat Pedal.

MOTO says their pedal is light and increases visibility and offers premium weather resistant grip in a simple form. They say it’s their best-priced model to date. It’s not cheap for a plastic-platformed pedal, at £59 / $74.

Summary

The MOTO Reflex Flat Pedal is perfect for urban commuters or leisure riders who want a grippy, comfortable base to secure most of the forefoot when riding. 

Unlike traditional platform pedals which leave gaps and have pointier edges, this pedal is sleek, with a large surface area and slim profile. Reflective tape helps improve the rider’s visibility.

The model allows for use with many shoe types and provides security when used in any conditions unlike clipless pedals which are less helpful in the urban environment. The large surface area would suit e-bike users too, providing more comfort in those moments of pedal assistance.

First impressions and fitting

The pedals arrived with simple fitting instructions and a guide to how they are constructed. A 3mm Allen key is supplied which allows for servicing and adjusting the distance from the pedal to the crank arm to suit your shoe size. 

The first thing you notice is the flat surface area. The whole body of the pedal feels like one unit. It’s shallow in the cross section too, compared to other platform pedals.

The other thing you notice is the Griptape which covers the whole surface. Your whole forefoot should be able to fit across the pedal and stay in position.

Pedal installation is not necessarily intuitive even though the only tool you need is an 8mm Allen key and some grease. Instructions are clear and the non-drive side pedal is marked with a groove.

Key Features

The weight of the tested pedals was 348g and they looked robust and with a minimalist design. Mine came fitted with two white reflective strips on each side from a choice of colours. MOTO calls these Reflex Tapes.

Custom Griptape pads and pedals straps are options too. The styling of these options is perhaps a nod to the founder’s BMX background.

The two half-shells of each pedal are made from honeycombed fibreglass-reinforced plastic supported by a machined stainless steel axle. Whilst the shell material feels light, the strength from the honeycomb design and axle provides stability.

The design incorporates straightforward servicing, maintenance and replacement of the component parts. The Griptape surface can be replaced when one wears down.

Testing

The grip and comfort levels of the MOTO Reflex pedals are the first thing you notice. I wore the same sneakers as I use with my Shimano SPD pedals and they really felt grounded on the broad surface area of the platform.

I’m a size 7/41 and felt that the widest part of my foot was always in contact with the pedal. The surface has a grit-like, sandpaper feel which makes for a lot of traction but you don’t feel trapped in one position.

Because more of your foot is on the pedal than with an SPD version, the comfort levels are high in any form of footwear. The grit of the surface might scuff the sole of certain types of shoe more than others. In the gum sole of my sneakers the grip was awesome and had a pleasant rebound over bumps, without losing any form.

It was a dry day when testing but the grip – think like a skateboard if you haven’t handled sandpaper – promises functionality in wet conditions. Some riders say that unclipped pedals are less effective going uphill but I felt no discernible difference in the pedal power I obtained on local urban gradients.

The pedals were just fine in the city. Stopping at lights with a foot down was a breeze as the broad surface easily came to rest on the kerb if required. When parked up, the Reflex proved to be one of the most stable pedals I’ve had to prop the bike up. 

There was comfort and reassurance when setting off again. I felt better in all stages of a commute and there was no pressure on a specific part of the sole of my foot. Setting off from lights is one of the most disconcerting aspects of urban riding, so it was pleasing to be so sure-footed.

The plastic held up well when I tried to ride harder and there was no additional discomfort when moving the bike around by hand. I’ve had a few sharp digs in the ribs and thighs from a stray metal pedal.

There would be no problems in taking these pedals out of the city and onto light trails or canal towpaths. Their surface area and dimensions might cause them to grind against certain tree stumps if you were trying out technical twisting paths, like most platform pedals.

Are they the next level?

MOTO manufactures a high-quality pedal which is hand-assembled. They do not feel like ordinary stock plastic pedals which often come as an afterthought.

Day-to-day city or leisure riding with its frequency of stops will be where the Reflex performs best. Moving away from a standing start is sure-footed and journeys feel more comfortable.

The cost reflects the design principles, materials and modular replacement within the unit – not something that can be said of other plastic pedal offers.

The post MOTO Reflex Flat Pedals Review: Next Level Pedals? appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.

The Short Answer

Electric bike throttles allow riders to move forward without pedaling by twisting the throttle on the handlebars. Throttles come in different types, but their use is not always legal, so it’s important to check local laws.

E-bikes are more frequently seen on our roads and trails than ever before. Part of their appeal is the flexibility in how you get from A to B. You can pedal further for longer, or rely on the electric motor to support your pedalling. 

Power usually comes via pedal assistance, or by the use of a throttle. Pedal assistance is perhaps better known to most e-bike newcomers; so here we’ll take a look at the throttle system and what it’s good for. 

What Does an E-Bike Throttle Do?

An e-bike throttle is almost the same as that on an electric scooter or motorcycle. It’s found on the handlebars. By turning the throttle from a standing position, the bike will move forward without the rider needing to pedal. This can be especially useful when you need to start your bicycle on a hill.

Can You Ride an Electric Bike without Pedalling?

When you open the throttle of an e-bike, the motor delivers power without the need for pedalling. Examples include stationary road users pulling away from traffic lights. With quiet stealth, the cyclist on an e-bike can take off with no human effort apart from twisting the throttle.

Even though pedalling is not required, the pedals must be capable of being used and in good working order. Some e-bikes with pedal assistance also use a throttle.

What Speed Does an Electric Bike Throttle Do?

A throttle could technically enable you to legally reach speeds up to 28 miles per hour on public roads without pedalling, where throttles are permitted. However, this varies from model-to-model, with most electric bikes topping out at around 10mph when using only the throttle.

Do All Electric Bikes Have Throttles?

Throttles on electric bikes are not standard. In fact, they are not legal in some regions and countries. Where they are not legal, you will see more of the pedal assistance bikes, which operate the motor when your feet turn the cranks. Different countries and states see throttle use differently.

Types of Electric Bike Throttles

Electric bike throttles can give you the twist and go sensation like riding a motorbike but there are other types which provide the same function. We’ll look at some of these below.

Half-Twist Throttles

No, the half does not refer to only twisting half-way. The half-twist throttle only takes up half the space on your handlebars normally reserved for your grips. Don’t worry, you should still get the grips with the bike. 

Half-grips usually operate with a twist of the wrist and control comes from the thumb and the first two fingers. Half-twist throttles help deal with the fatigue of extended use and also reduce the risk of accidental operation.

Thumb Throttle

Reducing things down to a small lever which pops out from the handlebar in the direction of the rider. Thumb throttles don’t get in the way of any of the other mechanisms on the handlebar. They operate by pressing the thumb. 

They carry the least risk of accidental operation. They rely on pressure from the thumb to control the spring loading of the lever which means the chances of fatigue to that digit are really the only concern.

Trigger Throttle

The trigger throttle takes the thumb throttle principle on a couple of notches. Again, it’s operated with a small lever on the handlebars, but you squeeze towards you with the fingers rather than pressing with the thumbs. 

Do You Really Need a Throttle on an E-Bike?

Throttles can help in many situations which come down to choice and what you consider necessary. Sometimes we just don’t feel like pedalling – whether uphill or not. And some consider the ability to move away from a standing start quicker than you could under pedal power alone as an advantage.

There could be occasions where the pedal assist function alone is not enough to get you up really steep hills – a throttle could be a helpful assistant in these circumstances. Be wary that prolonged use of the throttle will affect the charge cycle of the battery.

Can You Add a Throttle to Any E-Bike?

If your e-bike comes with a working controller and a hub-mounted motor, in theory you could add a throttle to it. The controller unit will need to be able to accept a throttle. It will be complicated to add a throttle to a mid-drive motor because it relies on pedalling to spring into life. 

You’ll need to think about complications such as the available space on the handlebars, the extra wiring, is the motor fit to work under the duress of providing power from a standing start, and of course, will your e-bike fall out of warranty if you add a throttle.

Can You Have a Throttle on an Electric Bike (Is It Legal)?

Legislation around e-bikes can be confusing at the best of times. Maximum speeds and speedometers plus maximum power output of the motor fall within the law and you can add throttles to the list too. You should check your own laws and not rely on any seller information alone.

We will focus on the use of a throttle on public roads. Use of throttles on private land is not always subject to the same laws. We will also assume that all other aspects of the bike are legal – lights, brakes, battery plate etc. 

Most throttle use in legislation is related to safety, speed and motor output power. You immediately enter motor vehicle territory once the bikes power and maximum unassisted speeds increase – limiting or prohibiting use on public roads and shared paths.

Electric Bike Throttle Law UK

Throttles in the UK as we have understood them for this post are not permitted without being classified as a motor bike. This means registration, number plates, tax and compulsory insurance and all users wearing a helmet. 

All e-bikes – or Electrically Assisted Pedal Cycles (EAPC) must have pedals that work, a maximum continuous rated power of the electric motor not exceeding 250 Watts and a cut off when the bike reaches 15.5 miles per hour. This does tend to limit the legal boundaries of a throttle to some extent anyway – especially the top speed as we have seen that throttle powered e-bikes are capable of at least 33% more than that.

Of course, there are e-bikes available with more powerful motors than 250 Watts and speed assistance limited to above 15.5mph. These are categorised as speed pedelecs and subject to the same mandatory motorbike classification requirements.

‘Twist and Go’ type bikes that meet the GB standards for e-bikes are permitted. You can only have one on a bike bought in 2016 or later and if it assists the rider without pedalling only up to a maximum speed of 3.7 miles per hour.  If the rider is pedalling at the same time, the throttle can assist up to 15.5mph.  They are designed for those riders who have difficulty starting due to injury or disability. And all manufacturers must be approved by the government. 

Electric Bike Throttle Law Europe

Although specific laws differ from state to state, the essence of throttle use on public roads is the same. The classification of an EAPC is the same as is the general classification of speed pedelecs. So, you’ll be riding a moped or motorised vehicle and all the hoops must be jumped through to ride legally.

Electric Bike Throttle Law USA

The federal legal definitions of an electric bike are broader in the USA. The pedals must be operable, the top speed for pedal assistance is limited to 20 miles per hour. 

They also refer to a maximum power output of 750 Watts, rather than a continuous power output. State jurisdiction exists for using e-bikes on state roads. 

Many states operate a three-tier system of rules and regulations which incorporate use of a throttle. Class I allows for a throttle but only to be engaged when a rider is pedalling. 

Class II incorporates those throttle powered bikes which require no human assistance, again, limited to 20mph.

Class III moves you into the same territory as speed pedelecs in the UK and Europe. The throttle can take you to unassisted speeds up to 28mph and can be allowed on roads and on-road bike lanes.

Each state has the ultimate say on whether you can ride a Class III bike legally on their roads or not. Some states even say that a Class II bike is a motorised vehicle. You should check the law before you invest in a throttle for your e-bike.

The post Electric Bike Throttle: How Do They Work (and Are They Legal)? appeared first on Discerning Cyclist.